Hello people, I have an '87 Buick Grand National that I bought from a collector about 5 years ago. I've had it stripped to the metal and repainted. I've replaced all the weather seals on it, the headliner, the floor carpet, the steering wheel, and assorted interior and exterior trim to make it as gorgeous as I possibly can. I even had the stock AC Delco stereo refurbished to keep the stock interior look to it. I had a new power antenna motor put in it (my god that was expensive) and a wiring harness to cutoff the power antenna when I don't need to extend it. The only thing I need to make it perfect appearing is a front left fender molding as mine has a small ding in it.
For the suspension I've put in a front brace kit with the urethane parts, a heavy duty rear sway bar, a rear brace kit and all of the missing body bushings except for the upper ones (I think they're referred to as the #7 GNX bushings in some circles). Along with new springs, shocks, and brakes. I have the Kirban engine bay mounted brace kits in a box and still wondering whether I should even bother as they really don't like they would make a difference.
For the engine all I've done is put in a ATR Pitbull chip, K&N air filter, solid MAF pipe, oil bypass valve, ATR plug wires, and some cosmetic stuff like the intercooler to throttle body pipe and so forth. I've replaced every possible sensor there is in the engine. I've got some minor little wiring harness bolt ons I've added like upgrade fuel wiring harness and fan relay override (which seems absolutley useless to me). And new exhaust pipes (not the headers or down pipe though), mufffler, and cat.
The transmission is stock but I've been told that it feels like it's been either rebuilt or had some kind of kevlar kit(?) put in it as it has a real crisp shift to her. I did put on a transmission supercooler though.
It has about 85K on it, I bought it with 79K showing. I was going to wait until about 100K until I got serious with the motor. But, as you can see it'll probably take me a couple of decades to get there. It's always kept in the garage and I only drive it if it's clear blue and twenty two out (yeah, I know how anal that sounds). I've been deployed for the majority of the past two years and haven't had much of a chance to enjoy it. But that's gonna end soon and in a few months I'll be home and able to spend some quality time (and money) with her.
After I bought this car I realized...I haven't got a freaking clue how to work in it unless I have really clear and concise instructions. I bought a Chiltons for it (that was a waste of money) and I ordered a 10 volume maintence manual that one would need an engineering degree to comprehend. Yes I'm a novice, but I love this car and I can afford to maintain it and pamper it so long as I can find someone I trust to work on it.
What I want to do now is upgrade the motor without approaching it half ass. I can drop five G on it easy (six if I must), but I want to spend that money properly. I'm not looking to make a 10 second drag car out of it but I would like to make it more aggressive on the street. I want to keep the interior and exterior stock looking as possible, so no A-pillar gauges. I have no problem with having to use my laptop on her (though I'll have to buy the associated parts and programs...and learn how to use it). I wouldn't mind putting gauges in the center console tray so long as I can buy the matching grey leather piece that encloses them.
So, how best to spend that money?
Do I need to bother with those two gauges if I run a scan link(?) with the laptop? And if you still think I should put gauges in those two spots; which ones should they be? Knock sensor (would the scan link/laptop cover that)?
Which questions should I ask a shop to make sure they're competent enough to work on a Turbo Regal?
From what literature I've had time to read, fuel seems like the number one step. Replace the fuel pump? With which one? And what about a regulator?
The turbo and the intercooler? I've been told to upgrade to a TE-49 and at the very least get my intercooler modified by Dutweiller(?).
Fuel injectors? Throttle body?
Exhaust system to include the downpipe and crossover pipe? The car's downpipe and crossover pipe are stock.
Someone needs to write an Idiots Guide/Dummy's Handbook for Turbo Regal repair/upgrade. If anyone knows of a competent shop or a well respected individual in the Nashville area please let me know. And if you have suggestions on how I should proceed I would be more than grateful.
A very good response from the mailing list ... and my $0.02 ... the "Dummies Guide" basically has been written and it is contained in the Technical section of http://www.gnttype.org... you just have to dig a bit!
Spend a BUNCH of time reviewing every inch of the turbo regal web site. Read the performance recipes, they are a good guide for modifying a car. Read this mailing list and the older posts available on the web page. These are great places to learn about our cars.
Look at the vendor web sites for parts. You do not need to buy everything listed to go fast. A lot of cars go really quick with a good safe foundation and turning up the boost on stock parts, but certain parts should be upgraded such as the fuel pump. Don't trust the factory tach and boost gages either. Almost all of them are not accurate.
You can ask any question you want on the mailing list, but many, many of them will be answered on the web page.
Dave Hegenauer
1987 Regal T Turbo
Rodney, MI
Thanks Ken. I've read through the spring cleaning and recipe threads. When I get home it's definitely getting the spring cleaning treatment (it's long, long overdue...). After reading throught the discussion posts and recipes I think this is what I'm going to go for:
Turbolink V4.X
ATR GN 3" Stainless Downpipe (the DP301)
ATR Billet Adj. Wastegate
ATR Dual Cross-Flow Stainless 3" Exhaust
Delphi High Impedance Injectors
Adj. Fuel Press. Regulator from Cotton's
TA49 Turbo from Cotton's
340 Walbro Fuel Pump w/Kit
2" Boost Gauge and Fuel Press Gauge in the center console.
All that comes to around $2,500 w/o S&H. But I just want to make sure that I get everything I need to have that stuff put on w/o constantly having to call back for odds and ends.
And after reading through the injection posts, I'm still confused as to what size injectors I'll need to get. I've ordered through ATR quite a bit in the past and if I remember right their tech support was pretty helpful.
From reading the posts it seems like the boost gauge and fuel press. gauge will be my best choices. I'm only putting in two gauges in the center console below the stereo 'cause I want to keep as close to a stock looking interior as possible.
Will the Turbolink negate having to get an Audible Knock Sensor?
I also forgot to mention that I did put in the 160 degree thermostat.
Is that ATR downpipe, adj. waste gate actuator, and TA49 going to bolt on, or am I going to need machine work of some kind?
And will my Pitbull chip still be able to handle this stuff without having to be modified in any way?
With this stuff only costing $2,500 and probably another $500 in S&H that should leave more than enough for labor, maybe?
You will need to upgrade your injectors and chip.
Most vendors, like cottons, ATR and aggressive performance, can sell you a package deal for the turbo, injectors and chip.
I know aggressive has a big sale going on right now.
http://www.aggressiveauto.com/specials.htm
You will most likely want a stand alone knock gauge. Most people don't run their laptop software / turbolink 100% of the time. The fuel pressure guage will need to stay in the engine compartment.
Most everything is bolt-on.
Does the fuel press gauge come as an engine mounted piece or does it need a fabricated mount of some kind?
There are non-mechanical oil press. gauges that come with sending units, would that be a good idea to accompany the boost gauge in the console?
In my car I have water temp and oil pressure, both electrical units, in the gauge holder on the console. I don't think having a boost gauge down there is a very good idea because you'll only want to look at it when you are under boost, and when you are under boost the last thing you need to be doing is looking down under the radio to see what boost level you're at. I know you want to keep the car looking stock, I would suggest an A-pillar gauge holder. You can get them to match the interior. And while it may not look stock to you, I've heard a few people tell their friends and/or ask me, about all the "factory" gauges the car came with. They seem shocked when I tell them that they are all aftermarket. Casper's Electronics can fix your factory tach/boost gauge unit if you just want to stay with that. But if you don't get it fixed, you really need another gauge to be able to verify your boost settings and again, you need to put it somewhere that is in your line of sight.
As an extension of this thread, after temp and oil pressure gages on the console, and boost pressure and knock gages on the pillar, what would be the next gage to add? I have a three gage pod for my pillar. I was thinking of an exhaust temp. gage. Any recommendations?
An in-car electric fuel pressure gauge is a good idea (sending unit required).
Do you have a tach?
Voltage gauge would also be good.
I'd say all four of those would be good, ie egt, fuel, tach, voltage. It all depends on what you do with the car I would say. If you are really into tuning it and getting the best out of your combo, then egt is a must. If you've had electrical or weird bugs pop up, maybe an electrical would be a better idea. The fuel one would also fall into that line, and maybe more of a verification thing, just making sure you are getting the fuel you need. A tach is good for shift points. I would probably go with the egt if you don't plan on adding more places to put gauges. Also it would be with the rest of your "tuning" gauges.
A couple other useful guages are an A/F ratio monitor and knock detector. There are also a couple vendors who sell custom dash bezels. It may not be stock but it'll be a cleaner way to present them. Something to consider.