    justin smith (Blackknight) | Wednesday, May 01, 2002 - 08:21 pm  ok i just installed a new alternator (which was checked to be good before i out it in) and them i bought a new battery (also checked to make sure it was good) and then bought new battery bolts to make sure they were making good connection to battery. so i drove around for a couple hours, it was fine, started the next morning after 12 hours fine, then was driving around for about an hour and finally again the car just dies, it starts to shutter and wont take power when i hit the gas, so i turn it off and come back and try to start it and all i get is click click click no power. Can anyone tell me what the problem might be? IM STUMPED. thanks justin |
    Donald L. Webb (Spiderwebb) | Wednesday, May 01, 2002 - 09:07 pm  I've experienced the same problem. It's simple! For whatever the problem is, you are not charging the battery. Slipping belt, bad connection/s, shorted wire, open circuit, bad ground. Who knows? You need to do some diagnostic work with a VOM.It's likely that your battery and alternator are good. You have something else wrong. |
    Joey Douglas (Carolinaturbot6) | Thursday, May 02, 2002 - 06:54 am  It may be a problem with your coilpack and/or ignition module. The first thing I would check though is the positive battery cable where it connects to the block. It's not uncommon for it to have come somewhat loose. If it's ok, then the problem could lie in the coil/module, or possibly the starter solenoids. How many miles on the coilpack & module? Let us know how we can help further. HTH |
    Brian Lee (Brianwagonlee) | Thursday, May 02, 2002 - 01:40 pm  First off I think Joey D meant to check where the Neg battery cable hooks to the block. If you connect the pos, then you will have a really neat fire. One thing that has been talked about before is that the alternator needs the dash light to charge the battery. If the dash light is burned out, then the alternator won't charge. The car is supposed to have a special socket for the alternator light, that has a resistor in it so that if the light burns out, the alternator still has feed back, and will still charge. Only thing is, your car may not have this. One of mine didn't. Charge the battery, then turn the key on, but do not start. Make sure that the alt/battery light is lit. If not then this is your problem. If it is lit, then you probably have something else. Good luck, and let us know what you find. Brian P.S. If you don't have the socket, then you should probably get one and put it in. I think they are available at any auto parts store. If not, then you may be junk yard hunting. |
    justin smith (Blackknight) | Thursday, May 02, 2002 - 10:08 pm  hey guys thanks for the help well i know the light works. so thats not it. but ill check the other things out and ill let you guys know. thanks justin |
    Enio Abreu (Enio87gn) | Friday, June 14, 2002 - 12:41 pm  Check your battery cable going to the starter.visualy check that is not burn by the header, or that is not rubbing on the chassis,specialy if your motor mount is bad.it happend to me. i was going nuts looking for the problem..after 2 batteries and 1 alternator i was able to locate the problem.hope you do too.. |
    Dan B. (Notacarlo) | Monday, April 14, 2003 - 07:15 pm  I had a similar problem for the past two weeks. I took a voltage test lamp and dug the end into the negative terminal wire. (negative terminal dissconnected) Then I hooked the clip end to the battery terminal. There it was, a faint glow in the test lamp. When I opened the door to the car it went bright. After removing the dome lamp, lighter, and trunk light...it turned out to be the factory Delco stereo. Gives me an excuse to put in a nice GM CD player. |
    Phil Aubrey (Paubrey) | Monday, April 14, 2003 - 07:41 pm  A 32 MIL amp draw or less is normal. The radio memory and ECM memory draw on the battery all the time. In the old days we could use a test lamp or check for 12 volts but those days are gone. Now it takes a a fancy meter to do it right. |