Well,...after replacing my M.A.F. for the,...I don't know 4th or 5th time? (the last one shredded my turbo) I'm back at square one!
I power wahed my motor today and out of nowhere my 6 day old MAF took a dump on me and left me on the side of the road. I made it home just barley in "back up" mode.
So my question here is,...where can I get a RELIABLE MAF??? is better to convert to LS1? is it more exspensive? is there a GOOD aftermarket MAF out there? (never buy one from autozone).
also during some trouble shooting I spliced the ground wire, directly to the battery, will that hurt anything, or make any difference? can I just leave it like that?
Just do the conversion, IMHO. It'll cost a good deal more, but you won't have to worry about the junk reman's crapping out on you. I've done it to two of mine so far, and I've not had any trouble with them. When I got this last GN, I went ahead and got a reman'd MAF to "save money". Well, I ended up getting the translator anyway because the reman was crap, so I spent even more money than I would have to just get the translator to begin with.
Fast Freddie
I use the translator and new style MAF and I never had a problem. Mike Licht has them at www.fullthrottlespeed.com. $179 for the translator and $129 for the MAF sensor.
Mick as I stated before the rebuilders cut them apart to re-sodier the joints. I looks like the glue joint had a hole and took on water during the power wash. Another thing to mention is the TPS switch as NO water seal on the shaft. Get it wet inside and the car won't start. These engines don't like cleaning. Because of positive crankcase pressure the get dirty. As I use to tell my customers at the dealership "dirty engine GNs run great-clean ones can be a real electrical headache".
A really nice way to go waterless in the engine compartment is to use liquid tire silicone on a rag to wipe down everything except your chrome, glass, and shiny paint. It doesn't seem to hurt anything. The rubber likes it. The plastic seems to like it. The dull metal and dull paint seem to like it. It seems to put the dirt into the rag and it leaves a nice protective sheen. I've never experienced any electrical problems caused by the silicone.
I've read before that if you want to powerwash or just wash under the hood that you are supposed to cover or place the MAF in a plastic bag. As you have found out, getting it wet is a bad thing.
dielectric grease on all electrical connectors and a finger-applied silicone seal to the wire running into the connector and the connector/clip seal..only then do i powerwash. It's the first "sunny saturday garage dilly-dallying" thing i do to my cars. Never had a problem with powerwashing my GN, LS1, Jeep Grand Cherokee, 120K mile F150 that gets beat on, mudded, and severely off-roaded, etc. They all get powerwashed, and the connectors are water-resistant, and rust-free. Probably the cleanest thing on my cars are the electrical connections. The only sensor i've replaced on any of my cars was an o2 sensor on my GN..and i switched to a heated o2 when i modded it from stock - but the original still works great. Im real finicky about rusty connections
If you need to unplug the connector, you still can, and can use your fingers to easily remove any silicone sealant that separates, then just reapply it. You cant even tell it's there.
It keeps water out of the critical sensors like crank, cam, tps, etc., - basically ANY weather or water-exposed electical connection. I just use clear silicone RTV and apply it lightly using my fingers around the connector wire and then around the plugged-in connector to seal it. Im a firm believer in this procedure for what it's worth.
Ok,...Another question.
What about those damn screens inside the MAF? They fell out AGAIN! but this time I caught them befor any damage was done thank God! If you take them out, wont they effect performance or idle conditons?
Also I must power wash my motor once more, you see as I posted in "engine mechanicals" I'm also having a serious problem with my oil return line its cracked twice and now oil is covering my engine compartment!
Is it "Normal" for the car to run RICH during the "Learning mode'? for some reason mine runs a little rich.Whats even more weird is I have to run my fuel pressue at 36lbs static with 30 lb injectors...however, I can also run up to 22lbs of boost with turbo blue in he tank with NO KNOCK. But if I raise my fuel pressure any more, it starts knocking and running rich?....anyone figure this one out?
Mick the screen problem is again another poor re-glue job. Remember they were cut in half.