When to upgrade chip? (what mods require upgrade)

GNTTYPE Discussion Group: Scan Tools, Chips, and Tuning: When to upgrade chip? (what mods require upgrade)
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Shawn (Jsta6)

Tuesday, September 02, 2003 - 12:38 pm Click here to edit this post
I have a RA93 chip for 009's, stock turbo, stock converter.

I kept the 009's, but I upgraded to a TE44, 2800 stall, intercooler and 1/2, alcohol, MAF translator (not the plus), no cat, no mufflers, RJC powerplate, THDP, fuel pump hot wired, adj fp reg.

I run only 93 octane, and the alchy kit.

I have the boost set at 22lbs.

Do all these mods warrant a chip change? Or is a chip change only necessary when running race fuel or upgrading the injectors?

TIA!

Mods can be found here:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/h/shawnco/gn/gn.htm

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Ryan Shue (Shuedaddy)

Wednesday, September 03, 2003 - 11:10 am Click here to edit this post
Usually the chips are rated by injector size, so if you're still running stock injectors you should be alright. I would get a chip anyways, they're not that expensive, they're easy to put in, and it would help you make the most of you're setup. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will give some input.

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Walter Boss (Wally)

Thursday, September 04, 2003 - 10:57 am Click here to edit this post
Shawn,

How much knock on 93 with 22 lbs of boost? How much timing is in the RA93 chip?

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Shawn (Jsta6)

Friday, September 05, 2003 - 12:06 am Click here to edit this post
Ryan, aren't chips like $70? That is expensive to me...x-(

Walter, 20*. I should be getting no knock. I just got the car back from the tranny shop. Before it went in to the shop, I had upgraded my alchy kit. Let me do some more tuning and I will get back to you.
Thanks.

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Jimmy Pier (Angelina)

Friday, September 05, 2003 - 05:54 am Click here to edit this post
How much HP gain would an alky mod give a TR and what other advantages does it have?

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Ken Mosher (Kenmosher)

Friday, September 05, 2003 - 08:56 am Click here to edit this post
That's definitely one of those "it depends" type of scenarios. The benefit of alky is that you can run more boost and more timing with less octane. It basically is a "squirt of intercooler" :) The water/alky also cools the combustion chamber to reduce detonation.

More boost = more power, so it depends on how much boost you can run with the octane/alky that you have.

Figuring 10 HP per PSI of boost, and the fact there are several people running 20 psi on pump gas and alky, I'd say a conservative figure would be in the 40-50HP range.

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Jimmy Pier (Angelina)

Friday, September 05, 2003 - 07:18 pm Click here to edit this post
Thanks Ken, one quick question though. My engine bay is pretty bad, surface rust on firewall and just plain ragged looking. I want to pull motor to detail the entire engine bay , my question is how much of the acessories on the motor do you think I need to take of before lifting? I guess what Im asking is how little do I need to disasemble off the motor to actually get it to swing away from tranny? Aside from the obvious(exhaust and a/c etc.)

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Ken Mosher (Kenmosher)

Saturday, September 06, 2003 - 08:13 am Click here to edit this post
What I always do is:
  • Disconnect the battery
  • Remove the intercooler
  • Unbolt downpipe and remove
  • Unbolt crossover and remove
  • Undo the wires on the front of the starter
  • Undo battery cable to starter
  • Unplug the sensors from the front of the motor (IAC, coolant temp, O2, TPS, crank sensor, cam sensor, etc.)
  • Unplug harness from coil pack/ignition module
  • Undo two bolts on back of pass. side head (grounds)
  • Tuck the harness up out of the way on the firewall
  • Remove Serpentine belt
  • Remove alternator and the two brackets for it
  • Take the AC bracket off with compressor attached and lay it on the driver's side fender (wrapped in a towel or something)
  • Remove the two bolts from the back for the PS pump (reverse threaded, if I remember right?) and lay it on the fender cover
  • Remove the big aluminum bracket from the front of the motor that holds all this stuff (3-4 bolts)
  • Don't forget the wire that goes to the alternator that goes along the front of the motor or to unsnap the trans cooler lines from the front of the oil pan
  • Undo the transmission bellhousing bolts while supporting the trans with something like a jack or block of wood or something
  • Undo the motor mounts
  • Lift the motor out using the front hook and a rear manifold bolt or bellhousing bolt


That's all from memory, so I'm sure I forget something, but the bottom line is just to take your time and be thorough. When it comes time to lift the motor out, if anything binds or seems to "stick" ... STOP and trace it down to avoid ripping a line or wire (been there, done that, got the T-shirt) :)

Have fun!

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Jimmy Pier (Angelina)

Saturday, September 06, 2003 - 06:42 pm Click here to edit this post
Thanks man seems like alot of work to some people just to get the bay looking original showroom new, but thats the way I am I guess. If its gonna go, then it better be good to show. Thanks Ill probably change rear main and all other gaskets while I have it out. Im not in a rush so better if I do it now than curse about it later..


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