I just noticed my car has the infamous drivers
side header crack between 3&5. Is it safe to run the car with this crack ? What side effects do the cracks lead to ?
I just got my turbolink to do some probing, but the laptop still ain't here. Warning to all members here, this newbie will be asking lots of question when TL gets hooked up !!
Depending on the size of the crack, you will have trouble building boost at teh lights, spoolup can be slow, and if it is bad enough, you will have low boost. Not to mention it can sound like a tick in the engine.
Brian
Thanks Brian. I'm getting the ticking noise.
Its worse when the car is cold, I'm assuming that when they headers heat up, the crack closes some.
Spool is a bit slow but It builds boost pretty good.
I'm in a dilemma on how to fix it. The consensus around here is to take it to a shop, have them bolt it to block and weld it up. I'm hard pressed to find a place around here to do that.
Are these a bitch to get out ? I'm starting to lean torwards a replacement.
Dave
I can do them with my eyes closed(alot of head gaskets last year). The drivers side isn't too bad. If you can do without the car for a couple of days, you could send it out to one of the Buick vendors on this list. I know Jack Cotton welds them up: www.cottonsperformance.com. I'm sure there are others too. Also, you may be able to find someone that will send one out to you , and take yours in return when you finish swapping. That way you will have minimum down time. Just be prepared to pay a little extra this way, and also to pay a core charge(refundable of course). You should notice improved spoolup, even if it doesn't seem too bad right now.
Brian
P.S. I don't even have one on my driver's side. I'm running a cast iron manifold from an 82-ish NA 231.
Cool. I will definietly contact them. I can do without the car for the probable week it will take going to and from there.
Whats the best attack to get this thing out.
From the top ? bottom ?
Thanks, I'm learning alot from you guys here..
Dave
Top, bottom, and through the wheel well. It really isn't that hard of a job. Biggest concern is getting the header to seal to the head and the crossover to seal to the header once you put it back together again.
If your luck is like mine i had to use a gasket for a proper seal. Good luck.
Both headers on my 84 T-Type are cracked. Planning on replacing both rather than welding. I'm most concerned with removal and installation -mechanic looked at it and said holy bleep.
Any advice would be appreciated..
Thanks in advance
I have had the stock headers welded up 4 times before I got smart and bought a set of aftermarket headers. I put 114,000 miles on those headers without a single crack. At the time I bought those headers, they went for about $360 a set. Get rid of that stock mild steel junk. I also noticed a drop in underhood temperatures which is obviously a plus. If you get a set, you might want to think about getting them Jet Hot coated.
Chris
Chris:
What brand did you buy?
Thanks
I purchased the Hooker headers in 1996. So far, I have had zero problems. I have a buddy who purchased the ATR headers in 1995 and has had no problems either. I think there are a few more brands out there but I have heard if they are made with mild steel, they may crack. Try a post about header brands and I'm sure you will get alot of feedback. Good luck!
Chris
Chris, I'm a old newbie with a leak somewhere on passenger side.Turbo spools slow. Thinking of headers.Can I run a dual exhaust like on v8s? I mean a pipe and muffler from each side? Any advantages? Thanks.
Paul,
...Well sort of, The hooker headers are "seperate" sort of. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HOK%2D1115
Just remember that all to exhaust has to go thorough the turbo. The hooker headers are steel the stock ones are stainless (i believe). Some have said that the longer piping of the hooker system allows the heat to escape allowing for less volume of air reaching the turbo (read: less spool), but I donno. Jet hot may help this. Any one on the list running these, and how fast?
opps forgot. So that means unless you are running twin turbos, the two banks must come together before the turbo and then it CAN seperate agian.