All right here's the breakdown for background info, this is my first time posting but I've been READING for a while... 86 gn, stock turbo/injectors, bored .030 over, cam upgrade (have NO IDEA on the specs.. PUT in by NPD racing in Griffith Indiana where I got my engine rebuilt anyone know where they went????), reds xp pump (new), 3in downpipe/cat, and all the other standard stuff, postons 93 chip, new fuel filter, etc.. anyways, After my car has been running for a while and I get to idling the check engine light comes on then goes off Ive found that it's a code 44, (not to mention a nice code 23 that just started popping up.. new MAT sensor too!!!) I've done the spring cleaning, IAC cleaning/reset, newer reman maf, new fuel filter, and injector pressure cleaning... I can't find out what the problem is.. I'm betting it's the injectors, I'm considering getting 009's in the very near future w/ either Jays/ reds chip? since I was considering a new turbo sometime soon.. the other thing I wondered was if it had to do with the cam sensor, since I'm getting this pop every now and then when I start the car. Since I have a cam upgrade will the cam tool help me find teh right spot then just advance a bit? I'm really open to suggestions so please help me out...
oh yeah don't have a scantool yet, so don't know any numbers...
Nevin
86 GN
Try another chip. Some chips are programmed to lean out at idle causing a code 44 or you may have a cracked header.
This problem just started recently... I've had the same chip for over 2 years and didn't have it before, so I don't think that's it... I am going to get one when I get my injectors though... Any other suggestions? :-)
The MAT code is concerning ...
Also, I noticed "reman MAF".... do you have another to compare it to? I wonder if the MAF is way off?
Dunno if it would be the injectors (I'm bettin' headers... what is your BLM table lookin' like these days?), but if/when you do get new ones, you may want to consider passing up the 42.5s and going to 50s or high-z 57s. I haven't heard any feedback on the 57s, though.
This advice is coming from someone who has had stockers, 38s, 42.5s, and currently 50s running @ ~88-90%... and I have an ECM at Bailey Engineering for low-z drivers now.
Dean
Hey thanks for all the help guys... I was wondering about the MAF too, but I've had it for a few months now and I didn't have the problem before, so I don't know about that one... I don't have any one to compare it to... but I do have a lifetime warranty on it.. ;-) so I could try a new one... :-D I'm going to go check out the headers now... but if it were the headers wouldn't the code come up constantly? SES light only lights up after the car has been running for a while, and it's idle-ing, a it will sputter a bit like it's going die, then I rev it up and it will go out? and sometime it will just stay gone.. ???? I was DEFINITELY looking at the 50lbers but I'm working on a budget, the 42's from racetronix are about 50 bucks cheaper, plus I wanted to get a scantool.. I DEFINITELY NEED ONE!!! I'll srongly consider it though cuase their special on them is for the "matched and flowed" ones...
I would maybe check your grounds and maybe reseat the chip. Those are two of the main things I've noticed that people say to check when you get a somewhat intermittent SES. Normally I believe the SES light will come on and stay on, won't it?
As far as the injectors go, believe me, go for the 50lbs or the newer 57lbers. If you get the 50 or 57s(depending on how good they end up being) you shouldn't have to ever buy injectors again. I spent $360 on a set of blue top 36lbers and while I haven't maxed them out yet(getting there) I'll still need to upgrade them just to be safe. So I'll have to spend another chunk of change on another set. $50 more and you get a matched and flowed set that should last you forever.....I dunno;), pay a little more now or alot later, up to you.
BTW I understand about being economically challenged, I've been that way for some time now due to school. And yes you DEFINITELY need a scantool, maybe Ken could start financing? j/k
LOL @ financing... I think I'm going to take a try at the cam sensor setting procedure because I checked the voltage and it's at about 5.85... Supposed to be at 7.5 right? Plus it's not at an angle facing the drivers side going back a little.. it's facing the drivers side exactly... Oh and for the injectors the 50s are about 100 bucks more, so I AM going to have to wait on those (REGRETFULLY),because I know I'm going to end up getting the 50's or higher eventually but that's the difference between getting the chip for them or not.. and I NEED the chip.. lol...
Certain codes on the GN come on then go off depending on whether the SES error condition still exists.. I WILL check my gounds though to be safe... is there anything on this site that shows where ALL of them are???
I really appreciate the responses... Guys.. slowly but surely, I'm gonna get this thing..
ALLRIGHT... I'm goin nutz here... Changed the injectors (up to 009's now, whoo hoo!! runs better), Red's chip, and reset the cam sensor.. Popping went away... but after the car idles for a while, seems like when it gets hot... the code 44 pops up again.. Does this have to do with the oxygen sensor? car overheating? I think I need to get my cooling system flushed, but I don't see the correlation? Anyone in the Chicago area have a scantool I can borrow? Can't afford one yet, just popped for the injectors and someone broke into my car and stole my radio/ cd's so I had to pop for an alarm too. By the way etronics has a great deal on the pagealarm 750 lcd (remote start and paging system) for 184.99...
but as far as the code 44 what am I missing here? It's not as batd when the code comes on in terms of stumbling/hesitation now that the new injectors are in... but COMON!!! only pops up when the car gets hot??? *scratching head*
CODE 44
Trouble Code 44 indicates that the O2 sensor is showing a persistently high exhaust oxygen content (lean), despite the efforts of the ECM to increase injector on-time (thus increasing fuel delivered). Integrator and BLM numbers may indicate > 128 by a substantial margin.
The conditions for setting this code are:
no Code 33 or Code 34 (MAF Error) present, and
the O2 sensor voltage remains below 250 mVolts, and the ECM is in Closed Loop control, and
the above conditions exist for more than 50 seconds.
Typical causes for this code include:
1) O2 sensor defective or lead shorted
2) Lean injectors (dirty or blocked)
3) Water in fuel
4) Exhaust leaks upstream of O2 sensor
5) Fuel pressure or volume too low
6) MAF sensor reading lower airflow than is actually present
7) Vacuum leaks
8) Incorrect or poorly calibrated PROM
Going off of this list I'd look at water in the fuel, exhaust leaks, fuel pressure, and vacuum leaks. Of course your MAF is reman'd, which could be #6. Good luck.
Nevin,
I live in Lindenhurst 60046 by Six Flags Great America (40 miles north of Chicago). I do have a scan tool you may use not borrow. I do not mind if you want to drive to my house and we can see what is going on with your ride. Let me know.
Hey guys I think I found my problem, let me know what you think... I see that I'm missing one of the three bolts that connects the header to the turbo... You think that's the problem? (the metal expanding in that area when the car gets to operating temperature causing a leak in that spot?) What size is that bolt anyways?
As for the scantool, Walter that would be GREAT!!! I'm having this hesitation problem now that I installed the Red's chip and 009's (car runs nicer other than that though) so I'd like to see what it's saying... I'll email you...
Walter, actually you could email me, I just noticed your email isn't in your profile..
nsidius@yahoo.com
Thanks alot... Appreciate it...
New MAF got rid of the code 44 (whoo hoo!! Thanks for the input Scott & Jay) While I was in the engine compartment I noticed a bolt off my downpipe and header missing so I'm going put those in.. and while I'm at it I'm porting my stock elbow on the turbo.. just looking at it I see it's a big difference from the 3 in downpipe... cant wait to see the difference... going to have to set up a time with you too Wally to check out my readings... once I get the car back together...