I have an 85 Regal T-type. I put the motor in my 85 Chevy S-10. It has been this way for about 2 years. Well anyway, I started doing work to the truck about 4 months ago and things seem to get worse. Here is a list of what has been done. and the problems.
1. TPS had a dead spot- replaced again and again
2.Timing chain- Replaced
3. Started running real bad one day and decided to pull the motor. Never happened. Found wiring harness in junkyard for 85 T-type.
4.Installed wiring harness-----Nightmare
5. Motor still ran bad. tried setting cam sensor and tps. still ran bad.
6. Found bent pushrods and crushed lifters and rear main seal bad.
7. Replaced all- motor sounds good but still not right.
8. Found out that all along I had the wastegate hooked up backwards. Fixed it. Now the turbo screams and the truck detonates like crazy- at hard acceleration- Pretty much scares me.
9. Parked the truck and now Found bearings are bad. Going to replace this weekend.
NEED TO KNOW HOW TO SET THE TIMING-CAM SENSOR-
every time I set it it seems to change when i try to do it again. Also what can cause this detonation- ive got good gas in it and the fuel pressure is fine. The truck runs awesome when it is in park. when I drive it it is a different story. What other sensors should I check??? ANd how. Please email me at cturboaddict@aol.com
Wow! You have to get the award for persistence!
Neat project, BTW ...
As far as the cam sensor (which does NOT affect ignition timing ... REALLY!
), look on the web page ... Engine/Mechanicals section. A couple articles on how to do it. A great aid in this type of work is Casper's Cam Sensor tool. The detonation could be from a variety of reasons ...
- bad MAF
- sticking/plugged injector
- coolant temp too hot
- boost too high
- bad coil pack
- ignition module
- oil leak into the intake
A scan tool is the best way to get a feel for what's going on ....
Do they make a scan tool for the 85 Regal T-type.
Also, can the stock wastegate be adjusted to make the boost higher. ( the reason I am asking is because I had a buddy of mine look at the truck a few months ago--- when the wastegate was backwards--- and he said that he adjusted it????)
Also is there a way to test the coil pack and the ignition module. and where is the Maf.... I thought the 85 T-type didnt have these.... Thanx Ken.
p.s. once I get this all fixed im gonna call john.. Might even email him seen his name on some posts here..
Regarding the Scan Tool ... several out there:
- TurboLink
- OTC2000
- OTC4000
- Snap On
to name a few.
You can adjust the WG if it's threaded in the middle with a pipe coupler. It can be adjusted then by making the rod shorter (higher boost) or longer (lower boost).
The coil pack and ignition module is a good question for John Spina. He has a coil pack/ignition module tester and it might be adaptable to the early setup. You might want to consider converting over to the 86/87 setup too.
As far as the MAF, yep, they have on... should be somewhere upstream between the air filter and the turbo.
Sorry about the Maf question, I didnt realize what the maf standed for duh. and the turbo dosent have the adjustable wastegate. Another quick question. If the car is idling at about700 rpm or so. if i put a timing light on it what should it read?
It should read somewhere around 10 degrees BTDC, if I remember right.
Got worse problems. Crank is smoked. Took it out for a test drive and the knocking is still there. Gonna put a new crank in as soon as the parts store gets it in. Another question. As I was taking apart the timing cover I looked at the crank sensor and wondered is the three tabs that spin that are connected to the balancer are they supposed to be sandwiched between the slotted portion of the crank sensor. Or are they supposed to be on the outside?
OUUCH! Well, make sure it's a turbo crank that comes in (look for the rolled fillets on the rod throws).
The three tabs go thru the slots in the crank sensor.
Yeah its the right crank. gonna get started on the truck as soon as possible. Well looks like all along I had the crank sensor on wrong. I had the three tabs on the outside of the sensor. Would this make anything happen to the truck?
Crank is in did some other odds and ends and man I cant keep the tires glued to the road. Wow the truck never ran this good. The only problem I have left is the idle is real rough and it wont shut itself down unless I turn the car off and then on. But then it still idles rough. some one said reset my Iac but do I need a scantool for this????
Chris, resetting your iac is a start but....have you had the throttle body apart???? This would be the only reason for resetting the iac, other than replacing the original in the car. might want to check coolant temp sensor output, Egr operation(if you left that on the motor during your swap). I do have the correct procedure to resetting iac out of the '85 factory manuals if you need it but I would consider purchasing a scan tool(I have used the snap on tool and it works wonders) think of it this way the money spent on a scan tool now will save you $$$, aggrivation, blood, $$$, sweat, $$$$, tears, and did I mention money down the road. good luck!
BTW.....great project car/truck. You will probly never get those rear wheels to stick but where would be the fun in that?!? Turbo link is a great program but for the early hot airs there isnt that much more info than the snap on scanner(this is what i was told, not by my own experience) again.....Good luck! sam
Sorry there has been no response lately. But the truck has been giving me fits. It started sputtering and then it would stall. I would try to start it again and nothing. wait a while and it would start. But the SOS light would flash and then every time it light up it would accelerate the idle and then it would go down. uP down up down and so forth but when I put it in gear it would stall. But then after cranking it over a few times it would start and run okay for about a mile or two and then it would do it again. After sitting overnight it would run okay in the morning. Drove about 30 miles to work with a buddy following me just incase and then bang it did it again. So I unplugged the coolant temp sensor and it wouldnt stall but would idle real high and rich. But on the way home that day I broke down on the parkway and it wouldnt start for anything. Tried it all---- and then I (just so happened to have an extra computer in the back seat) switched computers ran okay but when I went under boost would stutter and go in and out of boost jerking the truck back and forth. Then I got about 3 quarters of the way home and it stalled. Waited a little while and started it again moved as far as I could go and it stalled again. Havent done anything since then. I am in the proccess of buying a used OTC 2000 right now. Just waiting on the response from someone with the total cost. Does anyone have any idea. Oh yeah after I did all of the work that I told you about in the previous messages it ran great except for the idle. and the first time it stalled I was coming out of the toll booth and stepped on it hard to see what she could do and bang a big backfire came out of the intake and blew off my ziptie that had the intake tube strapped down and then about 5 miles down it stalled. Found one loose wastegate solenoid hose after that. But that was all. ANY IDEAS.
cheis, did the backfire through the intake happen while your coolant temp sensor(cts) was unplugged? It does sound like a cts issue, they are short money anyhow. If the backfire happend w/ cts connected I would suggest checking cam sensor timing, highly unlikely its out of sync very much as the car does run. BTW I do know of someone who has a snap on scanner for @1500-comes complete w/ aisian and ABS as well as the domestic cartages. food for thought, sam
No it didnt happen when the Cts was unplugged. The backfire started the whole smorgasborge. I just checked today and the cts is only 9 bucks but the parts store closed so I am going to pick one up tommorrow. But if I recall correctly while the cts was unplugged when I shut the truck off and on initial start up (with the cts unplugged) it does cough a little bit out of the intake. Do you think the OTC2000 wouldnt be a good choice for me.
I personally have not used the otc2000, but I have used other otc units and the seemed to function properly. As for the truck the cts is needed to regulate amt of fuel going into the a/f mix(one of the many factors in a/f mixture) but with it unplugged the ecm cant be seeing any good info from it. Check your cam sensor as it may be out of sync. there are many posts on how to do this in the tech archives, if you dont have a multi-meter get one! a cheep unit will do the trick. As for the otc unit maybe someone who has one will give you a thumbs up/down. good luck
Replaced the CTS it is idling good now. And checked the Cam sensor setting. It is fine. The only other problem is that when I get on the throttle hard or even parially hard it sputters in and out of boost and the power just isnt there. Also when I give it gas from a dead stop it it pauses first and wants to bog????? ANy ideas....
ok. Assuming primary and secondary ign is ok and there are no vac leaks, check o2 sensor(may have been fouled by cts), Mass Air flow sensor(tap test)Tps sensor(make sure smooth operation electrically, no glitches need multimeter, set idle .42-.46---4.75wot) possable egr or exaust restriction??? sam
Just replaced o2 sensor before the cts but I will check it. The tap test dosent seem to change anything. TPS is okay. EGR works from what I see. No exhaust restriction that I can think of. I am planning to gut the cat this weekend and put a pipe through it ( just for roadside inspections ).
Can you tell me any way that I can check for vac leaks and the O2 sensor , and the EGR. JUst to make sure I am checking these correctly.
a good boost gauge will give away any vac leaks, wiggle test(wiggle the vac line and listen for hissing) as far as egr valve see if it holds vac by forcing diaphram to open valve and restricting the vac port(this tells you that the valve at least holds vac but other tests require scan tool
got a boost gauge in there now. At steady pedal in overdrive down the highway 0 boost. when at idle 20 psi vaccuuum, when brakes are applied somewhere around 13 psi vaccuum. Checked all lines nothing is leaking. checked 02 sensor when warmed up fluctuates voltage from 163 mv to 86 mv. dont know if the connection to my dvm was good? idle changes when egr diaphram is squeezed.
checked vss- when the wheel spins voltage goes from 11.54 v to 00.03 v. dont think that is right though.