I finaly got the motor all put back together (blown head gasket) Now i just got this car and it had problems before. I took apart the engine and replaced a lot of little things and made sure everything is fine. Now i got the motor all done, One problem is the previous owner had 5 ecm's sitting on the passenger floor, and like 6 chips all out of the ecm's, so i don't know which ones to use, i know that one of them is a hypertech. the car idles really rough and runs too rich with a little smoke. the service engine light flashes constantly really fast, and i was wondering if on these cars if the headers are suppose to get bright red hot? i'de appreciate any help
no way shut it down! dont run it till you can fig out what chip to run with your combo, you have a few problems to work out,
but, how can i find which chip works?
oh, and do you think the chip is causing the headers to turn red like that, and run rich? thanks for the help
If you have the SES light flashing rapidly, then I'm guessing that you either have a bad ECM, or more than likely, the wrong ECM. Go to here: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ecmsensors/ecmpage.html
Scroll down to: ECM sources. Check the number to make sure you have the right one. Once you do that, then try to identify the chips. I think your biggest problem is the ecm. Once you change that, you can figure out what you need next. Good luck.
Brian
My car did the same when the key was turned on, (light flashing rapidly), to read the code a little metal fork like tool was placed in the plug that reads code and then it flashed the code. You may just need this tool, forgot what it is called.
thanks a lot, i got a new ecm instead of messing with it, after that i drove the car around the block, the headers didn't get red hot like last time
it ran ok, except there is definatly a boost problem because the car is under boost even at idle. the previous owner made an adjustable wastegate but i think he made the arm too short... How long is it suppose to be? right now i have to pull on the arm to make it go on. is this normal? i also got a voltmeter so i could adjust the TPS but where do i hook up the hot wire? it says the blue tps wire but mine are all black. theres three wires coming out of the sensor is it one of them? thanks a lot for the previous help. OH one more thing the trouble codes i get are 15 and 32, 32 is the egr valve but i checked it and it works fine? one last question how hot should the engie get? mine was running at 200 when i went driving around for like 10 minutes. (what would i do without this site?)thanks a lot
My car did the same when the key was turned on, (light flashing rapidly), to read the code a little metal fork like tool was placed in the plug that reads code and then it flashed the code. You may just need this tool, forgot what it is called.
It's called a "Paper Clip"
Take a gander at:
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/malf.html
It explains the "paper clip" code reading and what the codes mean (if you don't have a scan tool).
The adjustable wastegate situation...
You should have some tension on the arm to get it pulled on. When you say "boost even at idle" ... I think you must have a bad gauge or hooked up wrong, because it's very (very) unlikely that it's really under boost at idle ...
As far as the TPS, since you have a nonintercooled car, the TPS is a bit different. A&C are swapped. Basically, you'll see 5-5.1 volts on one terminal, ground on another and then something between 0 and 5 volts on the other (referenced to ground). The variable one is the one you want (I think it is the middle one, but can't remember).
Finally, 200 is a bit hot, but might be pretty close if you still have a 195 degree thermostat.
I have a 160 thermometer so i figure it should be cooler, and what i meant by under boost was that i hear the turbo spin even just at idle. and if i just tap it to the floor the boost jumps to 20. which i know is too much boostwhat could be causing it to give so much boost if it isn't the wastegate arm? i appreciate the help thanks
What gauge are you reading this on? It almost sounds like someone hooked up the gauge wrong. By that I mean my car has a vac/boost gauge and it normally sits at about 20 on the vac side, if I tap the pedal, the needle shoots up to about 0. I don't even think it's possible to have boost at idle, the engine needs some kind of load in order for the computer to get the boost building.(Somebody with more knowledge please correct me if I'm talking out the wrong end.
)
Actually the stock factory ECM doesn't even know about boost, the same ecm is used in many normally aspirated GM products. (Unless it has been hardwired and modified to see boost, or you are running a JC feedback chip along with the TL boost sensing harness) It's pretty dumb by todays standards, but does a remarkable job considering what it has to work with. I agree that it would be darn near impossible to build boost at idle, there needs to be a lot more exhaust gas and exhaust heat to drive the turbo than is available at idle. The turbo may spin freely, but it is not building boost.
FWIW, if you are relying on a stock boost gauge, that could explain this. The stock gauge is pretty much a useless pc of eye candy with no real value regarding the actual #s of boost the engine is building. They didnt ever work right when new.
Regarding the red hot headers, if this was when you were breaking the cam in and the car was not moving, therefore no measureable amount of air flowing over the headers, that is not all that unusual. Especially if it was running too rich.
I usually place a couple of fans directed at the headers, along with a fan in front of the radiator when breaking in a new cam.
HTH,
Dwight Hayden
thanks, im reading this off an after market boost guage which i t'd in on the MAF line it only reads 10 vac not twenty is it hooked up wrong or is there another problem? once i got the new ecm the headers didn't get hot anymore so thats fixed. i appreciate the help.
I'm not really familiar with the hot air car's vac line setup. I'm probably confused on this but when you say MAF, all I picture is the large tube/pipe that your MAF sensor is on, that runs to the turbo....that shouldn't be where you hook into, you should hook into one of the lines coming off the vacuum block, somewhere on the throttle body. And I'm not sure how much vac one of those should have at idle, my car is an 87. Am I understanding you correctly that it sits at 10 vac at idle, but if you hit the gas it jumps to 20psi? That still sounds like the gauge is hooked up wrong or it's just not reading right. Hopefully somebody with more hot air experience will pop in here for you. Good luck
sorry i meant MAF, its a small line that goes from the MAF sensor sitting on top of the passenger side fender and T's into the manifold right underneath the turbo and continues to the fuel pressure regulator. does anyone know if this is right?
That would be the "MAP" sensor.... for the stock boost gauge.
where i teed mine is at the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line and mine reads 15 in of vacuum at idle and so far i hit 5 psi at full throttle. i am still breaking in my motor so i don't want to go too much. the tps voltage at closed throttle should be at .45 volts as i was told. i do know the vacuum line routing you can go to any parts store that has alldata and they can print you a copy i have aldata diy and it costs $25.00 a year for one car and 14.95 for each additional vehicle. there is alot of information that you can use ie: wiring diagrams, trubble code flow charts. hops this helps.
where i teed mine is at the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line and mine reads 15 in of vacuum at idle and so far i hit 5 psi at full throttle. i am still breaking in my motor so i don't want to go too much. the tps voltage at closed throttle should be at .45 volts as i was told. i do know the vacuum line routing you can go to any parts store that has alldata and they can print you a copy i have aldata diy and it costs $25.00 a year for one car and 14.95 for each additional vehicle. there is alot of information that you can use ie: wiring diagrams, trubble code flow charts. hope this helps.
Vacuum line routing is in the Technical Articles section of this web site ...