My 84 T-Type has been running better and better since I installed the 86-87 ingition module. Was still something lacking so I bought new injectors also. Stock injectors are still installed. But, car seems to be running better with more power etc., after a 1500 mile road trip so am in no hurry to install new injectors now.
Today, I floored it for a bit and once everything got spooled up the engine starts making a rapid banging (like a backfire or a missing kinda noise rather than a bearing or mechanical knock) and I see what looks like grey dusty colored smoke out the exhaust..
Any ideas???
Thanks
Could be a lot of things:
- Too much boost for the octane
- Too lean
- Positive battery cable touching the frame
- Bad ground(s)
- Loose connector at crank sensor
- Marginal crank sensor
- Marginal ignition module
- Bad connection to ignition module (or wiring error)
- Bad MAF/chip not calibrated for the MAF
- Coil pack
Ken:
Thanks for the reply, appreciate it.
The coil pack and module are new (86-87 style). (The first one I installed lasted a week, so I must assume they can be funky even when brand new. Always use the highest pump gas I can get. As for too lean, the injectors are original (have heard they usually clog or wear out???) - bought replacements, (Tomco 30#)will have my mechanic install them and look into everything else.
Thanks again
The too lean condition can be a result of fuel filter plugged/dirty, weak pump, insufficient voltage to the pump, injector (or injectors) that are plugged/dirty/worn, etc.
Do you have some scan tool readings you can share?
Ken:
Not yet on the scan tool readings, but will be getting some and then post here. Dunno if my mechanic can do this or not. If not, should I go to a Buick dealer or buy my own scan tool (which one) or what?
Thanks again for your reply...
I think that you'll find a scan tool is invaluable for keeping these cars in tip top shape.
It doesn't take many trips to the mechanic before you bought one of the popular scan tools for the TRs (around $250) anyway.
Ken:
My mechanic and I are going to do an on-road diagnostic tomorrow. What is the easy way (if any) to tell if my boost regulator is working properly. Shouldn't I see some movement of the actuator when the throttle is feathered?
Am planning to buy turbo-link when finances allow, most likely next week.
Thanks
The wastegate rod won't activate unless there's a pretty good load on the motor (since it bleeds off boost and boost is built when there's a load/EGT).
Look very carefully at the O2 volts under WOT, as well as the MAF numbers ... MAF should go close to 255 under WOT.
You might want to find a mechanical pressure guage (or install a boost gauge) before your ride. It'll tell you a lot!