    Joseph L. Kelly (Jkelly) | Saturday, August 10, 2002 - 02:39 pm  Car idles in the driveway no problem, but dies while driving. It will restart only after cooling down. No trouble codes ever appear. Does anyone have a clue as to whats going on? Thanks. |
    Rob Reese (Tta1387) | Saturday, August 10, 2002 - 03:48 pm  Check the bolts on the balancer. I had this problem over the summer. Bolts backed out. |
    Brian Lee (Brianwagonlee) | Saturday, August 10, 2002 - 05:19 pm  I had a car one time that would do that(actually it wasn't mine, but you get the idea). 1988 Olds Cutlass, but it had a the 3.8 SFI sideways motor. It turned out to be the crank sensor. It had 3 of them go. I'm guessing the dufus that was putting them in was not doing it right, and the interrupter ring was eating them up. It never threw a code either. Brian |
    Joey Douglas (Carolinaturbot6) | Sunday, August 11, 2002 - 05:24 am  How old is the fuel pump? A fuel pump on it's way out will sometimes pump fine until it gets warmed up, or hot, & then it will quit. After it cools down, it may start working again. You can try removing the shrader valve from the fuel rail & hooking a hose up there. Put the other end of the hose in a bucket, or container of some sort. Apply 12 volts to the black wire/connector that's behind the alternator. This wire should be hanging loose. It is a fuel pump test relay. The pump should pump about a gallon of fuel in 60 seconds. Try that & see what you get. |
    Joey Douglas (Carolinaturbot6) | Sunday, August 11, 2002 - 05:35 am  The coilpack & ignition module are also very sensitive to heat. Although ohming the coilpack towers isn't ALWAYS conclusive, it will sometimes show a problem. Using a volt meter, test the coilpack towers from the front to the back. They will/should show 11-13 between the two. Let us know what you find bud. |