has anyone ever replaced oil pan gasket with engine in the car.
thanks in advance
Yes its a little tricky. First use one of the FelPro or GM rubber gaskets. When you get the oil pan unbolted you need to unbolt the oil pick up screen then just let the pan set on the crossmember and put the gasket in place. The FelPro gaskets come with some plastic helpers that screw into the corners of the block to hold the gasket in place. Bolt the pick up screen back up and make sure the gasket lines up when you bolt the pan up. Make sure you use a new gasket on the pickup screen if you rip up the oil one.
it is the easyist thing to do on our cars . all you have to do is unbolt the exhaust crossmember and all the oil pan bolts than slide it out twards the trans and that's it easy you dont have to unbolt the pickup screen.
I was unable to get the pan to squiggle around the screen when I wanted to put the pan back in place. So, I unbolted the P/U tube.
Unbolting the mounts so you can lift the engine slightly is a real plus as there is a transmission line or two that is clipped to the oil plan up front over the cross member.
I used, as many others do, the extra thick oil pan cork gasket. It is made by Duttweiler and I'm betting that most GN guys carry it. Per a recommendation of someone on the sight, I applied a very thin layer of RTV to each side of the gasket before I bolted the pan in place. No leaks.
Have you thought about replacing the rear seal while you're there?
Don't forget to crank it to build some oil pressure before you fire it up. If you have an oil pump priming tool, you should use it particularly if you've removed the Pick-up screen
Good Luck
If you use the GM gray silicone gasket don't over tighten it. It will just squish out and leak. Sung is good. I have always had good luck with the GM gasket. If you rear main seal leaked the Fel Pro #2903 rubber lip seal would be a good idea while you have the pan off.
Jack Cotton had this to say on the mailing list:
Don't use the FP blue gasket, it is junk. The GM isn't too bad, we prefer cork, it never disintegrates or leaks. As for the oil pickup, never had to remove one to remove the pan. I think I've removed 100 plus pans the last 5 years.
JACK COTTON
9.41@ 142.00, 9.57@145.00 Cotton's Performance :: Index , check out our BB
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When I changed my timing chain, front seal, rear seal, I had a tough time getting the oil pan out. For some reason, my car's engine was built slightly more forward than other GNs. So I had to raise the engine about 1/2 inch to allow it to slide out. You don't need to unbolt the oil pick up. DO NOT USE THE FELPRO BLUE GASKET! Or any silicone gasket! THEY ARE REALLY JUNK! I did and it leaked BAD! And they blow out when you put the engine under higher than normal boost (18-24).I got the extra thick cork one marketed by Ken Duttweiler. NO LEAKS! How I put it back in was I put a very, very thin coat of RTV (red) on the pan. Put the gasket on it and put the bolts on the holes to align the gasket. Then use something kinda heavy (I used 2x4s) and put it on top to keep the gasket from moving while the RTV sets up. Wait about 10 minutes and put the pan in very slowly. Kirban has them for $20.00.