I really dont want to use a double roller. I am more inclined to use a heavy duty stock style chain that uses two steel gears. Anyone know which brand i shoud use? TRW? Sealed Power? Any other brands? Who is a good source? thanks
Pretty much all the same thing any more after being acquired by Federal Mogul.
FWIW, I used the Perfect Circle set (about $25) and it's held up fine for many years now.
Who carrys the Perfect Circle brand? Thanks.
It might now be under the monster merged company "Sealed Power" or Federal Mogul.
Federal Mogul bought up a BUNCH of the small brands in the last few years.
I was just wondering why you don't want to use a double roller?
Most don't use a dbl roller chain because the chain eats the tensioner up, and whats left wedges in the gears some where (then poof). I'm using an edelbrock true roller dbl roller chain. Motor has 20000 miles on it. Maybe I'm just lucky
when you use a true dbl roller, ur not suppose to use the spring loaded tensioner. I like the dbl roller my self, but to each there zone..
MARIO
So, how do you take the slack out of the timing chain without a tensioner?
Melvin
You cant take the tension out. Just go with a stock style timing chain with metal gears and use the tensioner. You wont have a problem. Just my opinion.....Melling makes a nice quality set. Thats what i used...
When you buy a REAL Hi performance chain such as the ROLMASTER, the chain's length is made to operate in a "tight" position, so to speak.[The length was determined to be such as to preclude the use of the tensioner.]AKA: SBC.
Additionally,some of the "no tensioner" designs are available w/ various oversized gears to allow it to be tight when installed on an engine that has been line bored.These are stated as .004, .005, etc. There was a post sometime ago, telling of the amt of pressure to be applied to a "no tensioner" chain to see if it was the correct length... Can't find it right now. Anyone remember???
On at least "1 occasion", :o), there have been reported failures of bearings due to the use of a tensioner on a "tight" chain causing a loss of the tensioner pad and it's taking up "residence" in the pump screen. It was reported that the problem was due to the "sharp edges" on the link leaves... I suggest it was due more to the excessive tension put on the "pad" on the tensioner by overloading the spring on the tensioner.
I have had the good fortune, back in the "days of yore" to attempt to use a tensioner on a tite chain install. When I attempted to put the ft cover on, it wouldn't fit!! The god of SPEED was looking out for me that day!!
I have a ROLMASTER install sheet. I'll look at it if anyone's interested.
Here's where the flame suit comes in handy!! I am a FIRM believer that the tensioner allows too much "spark scatter" and reverse/forward slop in the cam timing to be worth the savings.I think it was an inexpensive way to mass produce an engine that was destined to suffer the "cruel, inhumane" treatment of no oil changes,and generally poor maintenence. Remember, this design started life MANY yrs before turbos were added![They were easier to assemble too.!]
Chuck
FERGOT SUMPTHIN!
The chains are actually the same on the std fit ROLMASTER and the OS part#'s. That way the sets can be made up by simply changing the sizes of the gears. [While maintaining the 2 to 1 ratio]
If the chain dims were changed, then the ctr to ctr dims on the gear teeth would have to be changed too.
[The 2-3 sets I have in my shop all indicated the chains were the same dims.]WARNING!! If you have MORE than 1 set, keep them seperated!!The gear[s] are marked w/ the OS size on them,BUT only 1 is marked.
I'd agree that the "stocker style" chains work well for the long haul, stock shortblock assemblies. However, I'd look into the ROLMASTER if you are going w/ heavier springs, hyd/solid roller cams, etc..
Greg herman posted:
Nonsenss. The inside of the butt joint on a curled roller or bushing does
NOT have any bulge.
>2. A second problem w/ that design is the seam does not allow the roller
>=
>to roll as it should, creating another problem w/ wear on the OD of the
>=
>roller and the sprocket teeth, as the roller is skidding and not =
>rolling.
Nonsense again. What is going on here to get these symptoms is somebody is
revving the engine WELL above the maximum design speed of the chain !! A
In the FWIW dept: I didn't post the info, as I knew it, on roller chains so that the post would be considered as "nonsense".
Maybe that's just another reason we old folks just go away... People who know some things are just a PIA to those who know everything.