I have an 87 GN that I got about a month ago. When ever i floor it, it will go but getting around high rpm (5500)the car will slow in acceleration and the tach will show all the red lights, give it a sec or two and it will hit the next gear and go on. Do you think i need a flush, a rebuild or a shift kit? what will cure this problem?
The factory tachometer is known for being very wrong. My car's tach lights up all the lights, even the red ones, whenever I floor it. According to TurboLink, the same point my stock tach goes all red, I'm at about 3400rpm. Get a scantool, you definitely need one of those. Also you could get yourself an aftermarket tach to see what kind of rpms you are really turning. From my understanding, a pretty stock car or one with a stock tranny will shift like that. Hell mine even shifts like that a little. Also, these motors weren't meant to turn high rpms, and they really don't need to, so it will lose power that high. Most seem to lose power after 5200, stock setups that is. Another thing, the valve springs in these cars were barely adequate when original and with it being 15 years since they were new, if they haven't been changed then they are probably in need of replacement. That can make you lose some higher(ie 5000) rpm power. If the tranny hasn't been flushed or actually if it was me and I wasn't 100% sure of the history, I'd drain it, pull the tranny pan and change the filter. That way you atleast know when it was changed last and you can see if you have debris inside. Good luck.
My factory tach is off by 1500. I didn't know that until I bought an external tach. My car also looses its mind on WOT passes up around redline. I am doing the valve springs soon, and then I will take a look at the governor spring, which also is suspect...
Shawn, you might also try spending around 60.00 and get the tranny flushed. That way if there is any crap left in the trans/torque converter it all get replaced with fresh trans oil. This made a huge difference on my stock t-type with 88k miles.
Chris
Don't qiote me on this, but I heard that if you flush the tranny you may push some debris into the cooler and then....well you are screwed. I have seen coolers and radiators replaced when tranny's are swapped or rebuilt.
You can buy the cans to do it at home. But if you pull the pan and don't see anything, then I wouldn't worry about it. If youdo decide to flush it on your own, I'd disconnect the cooler from the tranny lines, then use one can on the tranny and lines and another or a small part of one can just on the cooler itself. After a tranny died on me and I had another built for the car, we didn't think about the cooler and hooked the new tranny up. It was puking fluid in no time. Pulled the lines out and found all sorts of stuff stuck in the inlet lines going into the factory cooler. We just mounted a B&M cooler in front of the radiator and bypassed the factory unit completely, no more puking. Best way to clean the torque converter is to pull it out and take it to someone that can cut it open and clean it out for you, they can also check to see if it's ok. Had mine in for a cleaning and found 8 fins broken off inside, not to mention it wasn't furnaced brazed like it was supposed to be. He cleaned it and turned it into a 2800-3000 for me for much less than a new one.
Most transmission shops (that I know of) will perform the flush at the cooler lines so that shouldn't be a concern.