I am looking at the 1990 Camaro 1LE 36mm front sway bar (P/N 14094344) and the ATR 1-3/8" (1.375")rear bar. Looks like the aftermarket is not manufacturing metric sway bar bushing yet so I am planning to purchase the GM sway bar bushing for the 1LE bar. Thanks to Dave Jones, I now know that the GM P/N for the bushing is 14094389 and that the bushing material is a very high durometer rubber with a fiberglass liner. Sounds VERY high tech!
Has anyone tried the 36mm front/1.375" rear combo?
How about the 1LE sway bar bushing?
Regards,
Conrad Carter
North Carolina
I have heard that the 1LE front bar is not a direct bolt in, and that it needs "some modifications". I am thinking of doing this also, let us know how it goes.
BTW, the 14094344 comes up as "shaft" at www.gmpartsdirect.com. Price there is $81 including shipping.
I don't know about the ATR rear bar exactly, but I have heard that a good rear bar makes a big improvement.
The 1LE front sway bar is a bolt-in job. No modifications are required! Buy the 1LE sway bar bushing (high durometer rubber with a fiberglass lining). This bushing works fine with the stock bushing bracket. Bolts right up with no problem.
I weighed the stock 84GN bar..1.25" diameter solid bar - 21.0 lb even. The 36mm diameter (1.425" dia) hollow bar weighs 13.8 lb! Bar costs about $80 with tax.
Conrad Carter/North Carolina
Wow. Thanks for reporting back! Notice any difference?
How did the rear bar work out?
Someone indicated that the 1LE sway bar bushing bracket (p/n 14141898) is required. Well, I bought the brackets and they will not fit my 84GN. The bolt hole spacing is wrong (1LE = ~3.25" vs ~2.75" GN) and the hole alignment is wrong (1LE Offset 5/15" vs 0" offset GN). Use the stock bracket with the 1LE bar and 1LE bushing. It worked for my GN.
Conrad Carter
alphaenvirmgt@vnet.net
Conrad, I had the same problem. The 1LE bushing fits the stock bracket. I had the problem with the bracket alignment with the 1LE bar and stock bracket pulling out from the wrong bend of the bar. I autocross my GN and apparently the added stress from suspension put to much torque on the bracket and the bolts would strip out of the frame. I used the bushing and bracket from PST as it has slotted mounting holes allowing some added adjustment. I eventually went with machined aluminum pillow brackets located to a different point on the frame. About were they would be on a Camaro, and I haven't had any problems since.
Oh by the way I also run a Herb Adams 1.5" bar on the back and combined with sticky tires and Hotchkiss springs I betcha this thing pulls about 1 "G" on the race track. Its really to stiff to drag race with but I've had some interesting expierences chasing Vettes and Porches down the Interstate on ramps.
Howdy,
I'm building a car that is intend to both SCCA pro solo autocross and drag race. What is the best balance of swaybar and springs for this and what other suspention modifications should I consider? I'm on an extremely tight budget so I need the biggest bang for least buck type options here. Right now I'm thinking F41 frame braces, front and rear sway bars, variable rate springs, new shocks, and the big 1LE brakes. The car will be 455 powered just so you take that into account.
Thanks,
Central TEXAS Sleeper
1970 Riviera (468-4, 700R4)
G-body mutant (455)
Hi William, Your car sounds like the one I have been building for the last couple of years. Are you running a Regal? I used to run my GN in Solo2 but was never really competive enough to run in ProSolo. I have done everything you mentioned but the big brakes. I was going to go with a coil over set up on all four corners with some custom fabricated arms on the front. My current project is an 82 Regal with a 455. I am shooting for a race weight of 3000 pounds. Thats with a full interior and me and a full tank of fuel onboard. The bad thing about the GN is with it set up for Solo it sucks at the dragstrip as far as launching goes. My sway bar set up is the front 1LE bar and a 1.5 inch Herb Adams rear with Hotchkiss springs and QA1 shocks. Even if I remove the front bar for drag racing the 60 foots are still about 2/10 slower than the stock set up. Let me know if you get going. Its great fun kicking them Mustang boys at thier own game.
Conrad,
Do you know if the 1LE will fit on an '87 GN? Thanks.
Its not an exact fit but it will fit. Where it bends around to meet the control arms is a little tight. Just use the 1LE bushing with the GN clamps.
I am looking for the best bolt in upgrade front and rear sway bar (87 GN).
1/4 mile?
road racing?
depends.
I sell some sway bars and braces if you are interested:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=76019&referrerid=0
Every day street use. Something that will help cornering.
I swapped my sway bar out for the 1LE and I added the jounce bars. Big difference. I also got some lowering springs and dropped it down about 1 - 1 1/2".
BTW, 15" wheels and high profile (70 series) tires are NOT good for cornering. Upgrade to 16" wheels and 40-50 series tires.
Does anyone know if the ATR rear bar helps with traction using BFG drag radials? I have boxed lowers with ploy bushings, adjustable uppers, stock sway bar, Kirban pinion snubber, stock springs, and stock shocks. Also what angle does the uppers need to be set at for maximum traction?
I'm not sure if you need airbags with those parts but I noticed a big improvement when I put them in my car.