I found out the reason for the gap on the top of the pass door on my TR. Seems that the body bushing that is right behind the pass rear tire had sunk in thru a rotted portion of the 1/4 panel up towards trunk. This is causing the pass quarter to sag, and the other bushing that are shot are not helping either. I have been soaking the bolts and mounts for few days now with penetrating oil because I will attemp to change all of them. I would like to be prepared for the worst and not only buy the bushings but also have those washer looking retainers and new bolts because I know this isnt going to go well.My question is, I know they sell the bushings and I could easily get them but where can I get bolts,washer or retainers( I dont know what you call them)before I get involved?? Dealer? Also does anyone know what is the best way to fix the area that the body bushing was resting against, it is rotted pretty bad and I know some plating and welding would be involved.Thanks.
I sent you an e-mail with attachment of the illustration from the GM parts book. Hope it helps
Jimmy Pier said "the reason for the gap on the top of the pass door on my TR . . . body bushing that is right behind the pass rear tire had sunk in thru a rotted portion . . ."
You may want to check the hinges on your Turbo Regal first. These are heavy doors and the hinges do wear out.
Changing the # 6 body bushings, behind the tire. You are correct. The bushings behind the rear tires collect and hold moisture kicked up by the rear tires. A metal panel welded under the truck floor rests on the bushings and distributes the load to the trunk floor. Here that panel rusts due to the moisture held by the bushing. Unfortunately when they rust through the support mechanism for the body bolt nut rusts as well and the diamond shaped nut will turn when you twist the body bolt.
Parts needed:
The factory bolt size is Metric 10 x 1.5 x 80 mm long. If using polyurethane bushings get bolts at least 90 millimeters long. The 2 bolts under the door (#3) are shorter than the rest so get 2 - 60 millimeters length for these. Get hardened bolts that match the original body bolts. I got these bolts at a local fastener specialty place
I also got a 10 by 1.5 thread pitch nut for chasing threads. After putting the nut on one of the bolts I used a belt sander to place a taper in the ends of the bolts (except the bolt for the #3 position) like the original body bolts. Will make the ultimate installation a lot easier.
The polyurethane bushing kit from Summitt was the most reasonable and includes the #5 GNX bushing.
Reuse the diamond shaped nuts that are threaded for the 10 by 1.5 thread pitch bolts.
A few sq. inches of at least 20 gage galvanized sheet metal to make large washers to cover the rusted holes in the underbody and even the frame if damaged that badly.
To disassemble:
Remove the body bolts in the #3 (near the center of the door), #4 (near the back of the door) and #7 (at the back of the car) as a minimum.
Take the rear bumper loose at the four bolts on each side. Do not remove the nuts, but loosen to allow the bumper to slide back enough to clear the filler pieces as the body rises.
Lift the body one side at a time slightly to take the weight off the bushing. I used a 2x6 under the rear passenger floorboard with another 2x4 under the higher section all lined up near the outside edge, just inside the frame.
Use a saws-all with a metal blade to cut the head off the # 6 body bolt.
Now the body should lift enough to take the bushing out.
Unfortunately the rusted hole will probably be large enough to remove the rest of the body bolt and diamond shaped nut.
End of part one
Part Two
Reassembly preparation:
Once out of the car chuck the diamond shaped nut in the bench vise, soak with penetrating oil and heat with a propane torch. With vice grips the body bolt should come out of the nut easy. If the vise grips just turn on the bolt, use a grinder to make flat spots on the sides of the bolt for grip.
At this point wire brush everything and ran brushes down the body support cavity to remove all the rust possible. Then paint everything inside and outside including the frame sections exposed with POR-15 to stop the progress of rust.
At this point determine where you may need to add large sheet metal washers. These will be needed anywhere the frame or body mount has a hole larger than the body bushing you are adding. Cut out with a at least a 1 inch hole in the center with the diameter of the washer large enough to overlap the hole in the body or frame at least ½ inch. One will needed above the body bushing. For frame damage one above the frame and one below will be needed. Paint all these pieces with POR 15 as well.
Since the diamond shaped nut is probably small than the hole in the body support panel, fabricate a U channel that snugly fits the length of the nut and extends past it to rest in the cavity above. This offers some support and prevents the nut from turning when assembling the body bolt. Of course cover all the body nuts and these support pieces with POR 15 as well. Be sure to fit these pieces before assembly to make sure it fits well.
Assembly of car
Follow the directions that came with the body bushing kit. If replacing the bushings on the core support be sure to shim these correctly as the instruction emphasize. Wrong shims will definitely change the door alignment.
If you are replacing the bushings in the #2, #3 positions and you need to lift the body high, you have to loosen the front bumper nuts for filler clearance. Other things to do include: remove the shifting linkage and the body mounted strap (or drive shaft loop if replaced) under the front of the drive shaft to allow adequate movement, and intercooler hoses if you have a front mount. If you have installed a line lock and no longer have the original brake lines with the twists in them for expansion of the length be careful with these lines.
Add the #5 bushing located in the wheel well. This one has no bolt through it, and it sits in a pocket in the frame just behind the tire. Located just in front of the centerline of the axle the hole and the reinforcement panel in the body above should be easy to locate. This will reduce the weight on the #6 bushing and in concert with the GNX bracing behind the passenger seat will make the car very rigid.
When I did mine, I found the #4 flat nut was in a channel welded to the bottom side of the floorboard. When I tried to remove the bolt, (6 foot pipe on breaker bar) the flat nut spun with the bolt and punched right through the sides of the sheet metal channel. After trying all the well known methods of knuckle-busting, I drilled a 5/16" hole through the floorboard, the flat nut, and the bottom of the channel. I dropped in an Allen wrench and this time the nut held. Hey, sometimes you just gotta be creative!
I have done body lifts on many trucks and been thru some hell with some of them. But I never expected to have this car give me such a hard time. I will soak everything thoroughly and attempt this job by the weeks end taking your advise. Thanks for the info I will put it to good use and let you know how it turns out.If you dont hear from me in 1 week call the cops!!Im probably stuck under the car in between frame and body, hehe.
Ok got the 6 and 7 bushings out.Looks like someone tried takin them out before because the diamond shaped nut in between double metal body spun right away. The metal around the area of 6 and 7 is bad,rusted and rotted.Question, I want to add new sheet metal around the area that the bushing is supposed to go simply because there is no metal left for it to sit on. Is there a specific way to go about this?? I am a pretty good welder but I mainly mess around with heavier stuff.What guage steel should I use and to what points do I weld to for maximum strength? I really want to do this one time and would hate to put new bushings in and have them collapse into new repaired work that I've done..By the way all other bolts came out no problem, I greased them and sent them back in (awaiting new bushings,bolts and nuts)for the meantime. The rot on this car is more than I expected in the rear quarters, I almost want to hang new quarters on this thing, if anyone has done that let me know????I could go either way at this point.Thanks
Found on the web on June 19, 2002, hope this helps:
> Some time ago I asked if anyone knows where I can get replacement body
> mount sheetmetal.
>
> Conrad Lozier
> Woodstock, Ont.
> (519) 537-7214
> Cell: (519) 536-3506
>
> He makes (and installs) replacement frame rails and body mounts for
> mid-size GM cars, 78-88. The body mounts I bought were nice, thick
> steel, had the proper captured nut, and were a mere $15 CDN each,
> including the bolt and a hockey-puck mount.
>
> I'll post a followup when I get them installed.
> --
> Tony Lill, Tony.Lill@AJLC.Waterloo.ON.CA
> President, A. J. Lill Consultants fax/data (519) 650 3571
> 539 Grand Valley Dr., Cambridge, Ont. N3H 2S2 (519) 241 2461