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-   -   200-4R Rebuild ... step by step! (http://gnttype.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9724)

kenmosher 07-30-2007 02:11 PM

200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
Link removed - Information no longer present on nastyz28.com

81 elky 06-22-2008 08:37 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
Oooohhhh....pictures!

PaCemkr86 06-22-2008 06:20 PM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
wow nice find Ken

blownbuick 11-20-2008 05:52 PM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
This link no longer works. Anybody have an updated link?

Thanks,
JT

Keller 11-21-2008 12:18 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
The author apparently pulled his posting after having a nasty feud with some on nastyz28.com back in September. I will contact the author directly and see if he will provide the data for posting on our site.

blownbuick 11-21-2008 01:09 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
That would be great!

Thanks,
JT

jakeshoe 11-21-2008 02:58 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
Back by popular demand,
I eventually plan to update this and put it on my own website but here it is until I have time to get around to that project.

I don't have the time at the moment to check the posts daily although I try to answer questions as time permits. My email is the best way to contact me for questions.

jakeshoe@yahoo.com

The 200-4R is an excellent choice for a street or street/strip overdrive transmission IF you do the proper upgrades to keep it alive.

There are a few weaknesses that must be addressed. If you are below the 350HP/TQ level, a near stock 200-4R with a Grand National Servo, upgraded 2nd band, hardened sun shell and pump stator shaft, valve body recalibration kit, and boost valves will serve you very well.

Once you surpass the 350HP/TQ level an improved forward drum is a very important upgrade. There are several of these on the market. There are hardened/heat-treated/cryro'd drums and there are drums modified with a "billet" shaft.
I believe the billet shaft models are the best bet. These are available from www.CKperformance.com.

Also important is the direct clutch configuration at higher power levels. I firmly believe that dual feeding is the ultimate answer. It does however REQUIRE that you use a billet forward drum. I also like using Alto Red clutches with a stock 6 count and stock thick direct steel plates.

A larger billet servo becomes necessary at over 450 HP/TQ and in heavy cars it is preferred at lower power levels. My advice is that if you use the billet servos, you retain the large cushion spring despite what the manufacturers instructions recommend.

Disassembly:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3621.jpg

Remove the shifter lever, speedometer housing and driven gear, pump bolts (13mm), and then tap the servo cover on the passenger side of the case with a rubber mallet to dislodge it and gain access to the servo snap ring. Remove the snap ring with a flat tip screwdriver at the notch in the bottom of the case.
Grab the servo cover with a pair of channel locks and spin, wiggle it loose.
Remove the servo assembly.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3622.jpg

Remove the pan bolts and pan.
Remove the filter.
Unbolt the TCC solenoid near the front of the case, it will have 2 wires going to it.
Remove the governor cover from the rear pan area. (4) 13mm bolts. Remove the governor.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3623.jpg
Remove the wiring, 1-2 accumulator housing, parking pawl bracket, transfer tube, and valve body bolts.
The valve body should now be loose and can be disconnected from the shift linkage and set aside.
The 3-4 accumulator piston and spring can be removed from the case, as well as the check balls, 2 10mm center support bolts, and band pin.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3624.jpg

jakeshoe 11-21-2008 02:59 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
The pump can now be gently pryed away from the case and removed.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3625.jpg
The splash plate can be slid out exposing the overdrive pressure plate snap ring.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3626.jpg
Remove the snap ring, grasp the input shaft and pull out the input shaft, OD carrier assembly, and OD clutches.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3628.jpg

Then remove the OD ring gear.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3629.jpg

jakeshoe 11-21-2008 03:04 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
This exposes the OD apply piston/center support.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3630.jpg

There are two snap rings. An external snap ring that retains the OD apply piston return spring assembly into the center support. It must be removed first. You can use pressure from your hand to force the spring plate back and get the snap ring started at one end then "spiral" it off, while working your pressure around the spring assembly.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3629.jpg

Once removed it will look like this:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3631.jpg


You can now remove the large internal snap ring that holds the center support in the case. This snap ring also works well for a TH400 intermediate pressure plate snap ring
Once the snap ring is removed, if you removed the center support bolts previously, it can be slid out of the case. It is a very snug fit.
It may come out with the direct drum and the forward drum.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3632.jpg

jakeshoe 01-02-2009 07:04 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
Remove the direct drum and forward drum if not already out, remove and discard the 2nd gear band, remove the output shaft retaining snap ring.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3633.jpg

You can then remove the selective washer and thrust washer, front internal ring gear, front planetary, and front sun gear.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3634.jpg

Now slide the sun shell and shaft out.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3635.jpg

Remove the low carrier snap ring. And then remove the low clutch housing. This usually requires a special tool but can be done using a couple of "L" shaped devices to get behind it and work forward.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3636.jpg

Once this is accomplished you can remove the spacer snap ring fromt he case and pull the output shaft forward to remove the output ring gear, rear planetary assembly, and all the low reverse clutches.

broke1 01-02-2009 08:26 PM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
How do you dual feed the direct clutchs?

jakeshoe 01-16-2009 12:47 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
You leave off the center sealing ring in the direct drum (actually on the drum), and the 2nd sealing ring on the center support, and then block the bolt that goes in the reverse passage by welding the hole up.

But you MUST use the billet forward drum, or the first time it WOTs from 2nd to 3rd, it will snap the shaft.

jakeshoe 03-18-2009 02:43 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
Congrats,
You now have an almost bare case. Be sure to install a new case bushing, and remove the case to lowclutch housing cup plug seal. Clean the case thoroughly, check for cracks, flaws, and stripped bolt holes.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3637.jpg

Step by step re-assembly of the 200-4R.

Once your sub-assemblies are built you can begin re-assembling the transmission.
Now is a good time to let the friction clutch plates and band begin to soak in ATF.

The first thing you want to do after the case is cleaned and rear bushing replaced is to be sure a yoke will slide into the output bushing. It is easy to burr the bushing on install and once you assemble the 200-4R, you cannot access the bushing to deburr or replace it without complete disassembly.
Install a new rear seal.

Then positon the case to rebuild it. The preferred method is to use a bench mounted trans holding fixture. However you can set the case on an elevated platform with a small hole that allows access to the rear area for the output shaft to protrude.

There is an output shaft positioning tool that will make assembly of the rear portion easier. It is shown here:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3983.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3984.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3985.jpg

gn-84 03-18-2009 08:55 PM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
i would be very greatful to see the rest of the article:hail:

jakeshoe 03-19-2009 04:03 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
It allows adjustment to properly position the output shaft so that it cannot move while you are trying to assemble.

Before you assemble the parts into the rear of the trans, you need to check rear endplay on the bench. Completely assemble all parts as shown below. Once it is assembled you can check the rear endplay using a feeler gauge, adjust endplay by changing the selective washer, and then assemble into the case.

Begin assembly by positioning the output shaft vertically. An old yoke can be put in a vise or welded to a bench to make this easier.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3988.jpg


The install the output ring gear if not pressed onto the shaft as most are.http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3989.jpg


Next install the rear torrington bearing. This is easy to forget.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3990.jpg




Next install the 4 tang thrust washer on the back of the rear planetary carrier. Retain with petroleum jelly or trans assembly lube.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3991.jpg

jakeshoe 03-19-2009 04:06 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
Install a torrington bearing in the front side of the rear carrier. There is usually a plastic thrust washer here. Do not use it, replace it with the torrington bearing as GM did on the later model 200-4Rs.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3992.jpg


Install the low roller clutch (sprag) and then the inner race by turning. The race should have the splined side up.


http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3994.jpg

Install the carrier into the rear ring gear:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3995.jpg

Now you can install the low support onto the rear carrier.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3996.jpg

jakeshoe 03-19-2009 04:12 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
Next install the thrust washer on the rear of the sun shell, and install the sun shell and gear into the low support and over the output shaft. Spin until it seats
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3997.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3998.jpg

Now install the front sun gear with the grooved side down against the sun shell snap ring.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_3999.jpg

Then install the torrington bearing.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4000.jpg

jakeshoe 03-19-2009 04:15 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4001.jpg
You are ready for the front planetary carrier now. Spin it on until it seats.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4002.jpg

Install the torrington bearing on top of the carrier.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4003.jpg

Now install the input ring gear, thrust washer, selective washer, and snap ring.


http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4006.jpg

jakeshoe 03-19-2009 04:17 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4005.jpg
Check endplay with a feeler gauge between the snap ring and selective washer. .005-.010" is ideal here. Take the time to get it right.

You are now ready to disassemble the rear section and install it in the case.

Disassemble it to the rear planetary. Set the output shaft, rear ring gear, and rear carrier assembly in the case. Position the output shaft using the tool or other means so that the ring gear lugs line up with the parking pawl.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4007.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4008.jpg

jakeshoe 03-19-2009 04:19 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
Now begin to install the low/reverse clutch pack, begin with a steel plate. Then a friction, and alternate until you end with a steel plate. There should be 6 frictions and 7 flat steels. Once you install the last steel, install the cushion plate.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4009.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4010.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4011.jpg

Now install the case to support snap ring. It is a very thin flimsy ring.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4012.jpg

jakeshoe 03-19-2009 04:22 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
Now the low support can be installed. There is a feed hole and wide spline. This faces the valve body or bottom side of the case. This is best accomplished using a support installer/remover tool as shown but can be done by other means.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4013.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4014.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4015.jpg

Now the beveled snap ring needs to be installed to hold the low support housing in place.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4016.jpg

jakeshoe 03-19-2009 04:24 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4017.jpg

Next we install the sun gear and shell.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4018.jpg

And then the front sun gear,
same as before, grooved side down.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4019.jpg

Then the input ring gear, thrust, selective, and snap ring.
Then the foward selective. It goes between the forward drum and output shaft.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4021.jpg

jakeshoe 03-19-2009 04:27 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
These are numbered. Higher number is thicker for less endplay.

I usually start with a 8 or 9.


http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4020.jpg

Now
we can take out forward drum subassembly (left) and direct drum assembly (right) and assemble them together to prepare to drop them in.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4022.jpg

Install the thrust washer on the front of the forward drum:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4023.jpg

Set the direct drum on the forward and rotate, wobble, spin, until it drops all the way down. It is often easier to flip the drums over and feed the forward down into the directs.
When properly seated it should make a thud sound and look like this
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4024.jpg

jakeshoe 03-19-2009 04:30 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
Note the machined direct drum surface, this is mandatory with a new wide band.

Install a new band, preferably an Alto Red Eagle Wide band.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4026.jpg

Then set the forward and direct drum onto the input ring gear, aligning the cutouts on the direct drum with the lugs of the sun shell at the same time. Spin until it all seats but don't let the direct drum become unseated on the forward drum.
You can carefully use a pr of vise-grips here to hold it and spin it. Don't damage the splines on the forward drum...
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4025.jpg
Note,
You can get the band in after installing the drum assemblies, but I've found it is usually easier to ease the drums by the already installed band BUT do so carefully, don't be too rough on the band.

jakeshoe 03-20-2009 02:58 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
Next install the sealing rings on the center support. These are usually iron rings. I use teflon. Notice the 2nd ring is omitted. This is part of the dual feed mod also used on TH350s and TH400's. Install all three rings unless the trans has a improved forward drum.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4027.jpg

Install the thrust washer on the back of the support.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4028.jpg

New lip seals on the OD side. Be sure you get the correct seals, they can be confused easily with others used in the trans. The ATSG tech manual covers the difference.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4029.jpg

Install the center support in the case and be sure to line up the fluid passages on the valve body side. Install the center support bolts.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4032.jpg

jakeshoe 03-20-2009 03:01 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
Next the thick tapered snap ring with hooks goes in to hold the center support.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4031.jpg

And the thrust washer with two tangs.

Now you can install the OD apply piston, return spring, and snap ring.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4036.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4037.jpg


One easy mod to accomplish on the 200-4R is to add a friction clutch to the 4th clutch. The OD piston must be machine down .070" to do this as seen here:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8.../ODpistons.jpg

jakeshoe 03-20-2009 03:06 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
Then the retainer and snap ring. You can use a screwdriver to push down on the retainer and feed the snap ring in all the way around.
Once again be sure the thrust washer is in place, and install the OD ring gear.
Install the torrington bearing in the ring gear.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4038.jpg


Now the already assembled OD and input shaft assembly can be installed. Set it in the ring gear and rotate until it seats.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4039.jpg

Install a steel OD plate.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4040.jpg

Then a friction.
On a stock trans there are only two frictions. So the stackup is steel goes in first, then a friction, then two steels back to back, then another friction, and last the backing plate and snap ring.
If you machined the apply piston, you can add a friction between the two back to back steels.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...e/100_4041.jpg

jakeshoe 03-20-2009 03:09 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
You can air check the unit as you assemble.
You air check the low clutches at the feed passage shown:


http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...owaircheck.jpg

You can aircheck the OD clutches by applying air to the left feed hole and center support bolt in this photo.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...eedreverse.jpg

The hole directly right of that is the forward clutch pack, then the directs, then the furthest right passageway and center support bolt is the reverse feed passage. It is blocked on this unit for the dual feed mod to the direct clutches.

jakeshoe 03-20-2009 03:13 AM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
The stock 200-4R has a weak 2nd apply due to a small servo apply area. The Buick Grand Nationals in 1986 and 1987 had the largest stock apply area and these servos are good to 400 HP but above that an aftermarket servo is necessary.
Shown here is a stock generic 200-4R servo, a GN servo, and a CKPerformance servo. The CKPerformance servo has the largest apply area of any servo on the market.
The Sonnax Super Servo is the 2nd largest, and the Superior/Fairbanks servo is 3rd.
Any of these will work well.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...Comparison.jpg

You must assemble the servo without the large cushion spring and seals and install into the case with the snap ring.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...ServoCheck.jpg

Be sure you have the band pin in the case to hold the band. You should be able to depress the servo cover .060" once this is done. This is how you set band clearance. If it is too tight and you cannot install the servo snap ring, you must grind the servo pin end down to get clearance. When you depress the servo cover, you should see the band tighten on the drum inside the trans. You can see this beside the VB area. If the clearance is too loose, you must get a longer servo pin or install a pin extender.

Once the servo has seals installed and is installed you can air check the servo here:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8...ndaircheck.jpg

Be sure the band tightens around the drum.

Servo clearance is important. Too tight and you burn the band. Too loose and you can have a sloppy shift from 2nd to 3rd. The trans applies oil to 3rd gear, and this oil has to push the servo back into the cover away from the band. The longer the travel, the more oil is consumed by this cavity, and it slows the feed to the 3rd gear clutches

'75 10-08-2010 10:08 PM

Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!
 
This is a great thread, thanks for taking the time to post it.:cheers:


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