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#1
03-07-2006, 09:51 AM
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Pushrod removal?
Why does the valve spring replacement guide on this site state that you need to remove the pushrods? Seems to me there wouldn't be any need to even touch them if only replacing springs/seals.
__________________
87 GN, stroker, Champion irons and intake, 218/212 cam, TE60, 70mm TB, Precision plenum, FMIC, Alky, Innovate WB, TurboTweak, Powerlogger, 9" real Art Carr non-lock, Brian Hofer 200r4, TA stainless headers, 3" DP, 60lb injectors, MT ET Streets. 
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#2
03-07-2006, 10:15 AM
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Valve spring change for 1st time...ever
Also, will be doing springs and seals shortly for the 1st time ever. How do I rotate the motor to TDC? I see the rusty little timing mark that's difficult to see and the only thing I see on the dampener is a notch. Do I line this notch up with the "0" and then I'll be at TDC for cylinder #1? I assume rotate 125* clockwise for next cylinder in the firing order? What is the firing order? Do ya'll use the intercooler fan as leverage to turn motor? Never done this before. Any help would be appreciated.
__________________
87 GN, stroker, Champion irons and intake, 218/212 cam, TE60, 70mm TB, Precision plenum, FMIC, Alky, Innovate WB, TurboTweak, Powerlogger, 9" real Art Carr non-lock, Brian Hofer 200r4, TA stainless headers, 3" DP, 60lb injectors, MT ET Streets.
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#3
03-07-2006, 12:37 PM
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Re: Pushrod removal?
You don't have to ... however, without the rockers in place they tend to get in the way and be a pain in the butt to work around (especially on the back cylinders on the passenger's side.)
TDC is with the notch at zero ... HOWEVER, you need to make sure it's on the compression stroker on number 1. You can do that by turning the motor over by hand with the spark plugs out and feel it build compression with your finger blocking the hole. You can also watch the valves and they both need to be shut ... Then it should 120 degrees for the next cylinder, etc.
__________________
Ken Mosher 1987 GN original owner 650+ HP Black 2015 BMW 328xi XDrive wagon 2012 Volkswagen Tiguan (the Tig!) Night Blue Met (sold) 2006 Trailblazer SS Red Jewel Tint 395 HP AWD (sold) 2014 Silverado LTZ Crew 4WD 2012 Honda VFR 1200F Tahitian Blue (sold) 2015 BMW S1000R Racing Red 2013 Honda CBR500R Red (wife's bike) 2014 Triumph Bonneville T100 2003 Harley Davidson V Rod Anniversary Edition
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#4
03-08-2006, 01:01 AM
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Re: Pushrod removal?
Ok, thanks. So what is the firing order? And, does the transmission need to be in neutral in order to turn the motor I assume?
__________________
87 GN, stroker, Champion irons and intake, 218/212 cam, TE60, 70mm TB, Precision plenum, FMIC, Alky, Innovate WB, TurboTweak, Powerlogger, 9" real Art Carr non-lock, Brian Hofer 200r4, TA stainless headers, 3" DP, 60lb injectors, MT ET Streets. Last edited by 87geeinn; 03-08-2006 at 01:04 AM.
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#5
03-08-2006, 01:18 AM
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Re: Pushrod removal?
Should not need to be in neutral if you are rotating the motor by hand. Don't believe there is anything tying it down, and you probably and certainly won't reach the converter stall speed that way. However, it'll be simpler and easier in neutral. Could certainly bump it with the starter.
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Scott Keller - GNTTYPE Founder & Moderator
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#6
03-08-2006, 01:38 PM
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Re: Pushrod removal?
1-6-5-4-3-2
__________________
Ken Mosher 1987 GN original owner 650+ HP Black 2015 BMW 328xi XDrive wagon 2012 Volkswagen Tiguan (the Tig!) Night Blue Met (sold) 2006 Trailblazer SS Red Jewel Tint 395 HP AWD (sold) 2014 Silverado LTZ Crew 4WD 2012 Honda VFR 1200F Tahitian Blue (sold) 2015 BMW S1000R Racing Red 2013 Honda CBR500R Red (wife's bike) 2014 Triumph Bonneville T100 2003 Harley Davidson V Rod Anniversary Edition
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#7
03-18-2006, 05:25 PM
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Valve seals
I got these Clevite valve seals from NAPA this afternoon. There are only six on our motors correct? Is this brand o.k. to use and do they just slip on and "snap" into place?
__________________
87 GN, stroker, Champion irons and intake, 218/212 cam, TE60, 70mm TB, Precision plenum, FMIC, Alky, Innovate WB, TurboTweak, Powerlogger, 9" real Art Carr non-lock, Brian Hofer 200r4, TA stainless headers, 3" DP, 60lb injectors, MT ET Streets. Last edited by 87geeinn; 03-18-2006 at 06:25 PM.
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#8
03-18-2006, 06:27 PM
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Re: Pushrod removal?
Should be OK ... are they teflon?
They just push on the INTAKE valves and kind of "snug up". Should be fine as long as they are for the VIN 7 turbo motor ... (earlier 231s had a different valve stem diameter ...)
__________________
Ken Mosher 1987 GN original owner 650+ HP Black 2015 BMW 328xi XDrive wagon 2012 Volkswagen Tiguan (the Tig!) Night Blue Met (sold) 2006 Trailblazer SS Red Jewel Tint 395 HP AWD (sold) 2014 Silverado LTZ Crew 4WD 2012 Honda VFR 1200F Tahitian Blue (sold) 2015 BMW S1000R Racing Red 2013 Honda CBR500R Red (wife's bike) 2014 Triumph Bonneville T100 2003 Harley Davidson V Rod Anniversary Edition
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#9
03-18-2006, 06:27 PM
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Re: Pushrod removal?
Added pic
__________________
87 GN, stroker, Champion irons and intake, 218/212 cam, TE60, 70mm TB, Precision plenum, FMIC, Alky, Innovate WB, TurboTweak, Powerlogger, 9" real Art Carr non-lock, Brian Hofer 200r4, TA stainless headers, 3" DP, 60lb injectors, MT ET Streets.
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#10
03-18-2006, 06:31 PM
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Re: Pushrod removal?
 Not sure if they are made of teflon or not. They are for the VIN 7 as NAPA's computer states.
__________________
87 GN, stroker, Champion irons and intake, 218/212 cam, TE60, 70mm TB, Precision plenum, FMIC, Alky, Innovate WB, TurboTweak, Powerlogger, 9" real Art Carr non-lock, Brian Hofer 200r4, TA stainless headers, 3" DP, 60lb injectors, MT ET Streets.
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