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  #1  
Old 04-19-2015, 02:10 AM
JAMIEPACURN JAMIEPACURN is offline
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Default Brake Bleeding

Recently removed rear brake drums and converted them to disc brakes. On this site I found a statement that says, "Have your friend lightly depress the brake pedal (with ignition ON). While this is done, open the bleeder nipple and observe the fluid flow." On another site I read that the key should be "OFF" while bleeding the brakes. Which is the correct way? Key on or off???? I still have the PowerMaster, since my Hydroboost system apparently is coming from Pakistan, and read that the proportioning valve has a button that needs pressed in while bleeding the brakes. Does this really need to be done???? I'm just using gravity to bleed the brakes. Would appreciate some feedback on this.


Thank you,


Jamie C.
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  #2  
Old 04-20-2015, 03:25 PM
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Default Re: Brake Bleeding

Either works ... but the "ON" is easier for me because it uses the pump to actually push the fluid and maintain pressure in the line better.
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  #3  
Old 04-23-2015, 01:56 AM
JAMIEPACURN JAMIEPACURN is offline
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Default Re: Brake Bleeding

Ken,


I tried bleeding these brakes 3 times now and baffled as to why the pedal goes to the floor after bleeding the brakes. Here is what I'm doing so maybe you can pin point my problem:

First of all, I have disc brakes now on all 4 wheels but still have the powermaster unit in place. The brake fluid I'm using is Dot 3 even though the rear disc brakes states I should be using Dot 5.

Secondly, I made my own DIY self gravity bottle. Using a water bottle and drilled 1/4" hole in diameter in the center of the bottle. Then I drill a 1/8" tiny hole in the top of the lid as for the vent hole. Then I placed 1/4" tubing all the way to the bottom of the bottle and poured DOT 3 fluid in the bottle to submerge the tube.

Thirdly, I placed a 10mm brake wrench on the bleeder valves followed by the 1/4" tubing and secured with plastic wire tie.

Fourth I go to the car and secure brake pedal to the floor and wedge a 2 by 4 piece of wood between the front seat and brake pedal. Then I go to the bleeder screw and open it up seeing brake fluid come out along with air. I repeat this process using the "KEY ON" method as you suggest. Every time I press the brake I hear the power master motor cycle on then shut off. I do this about 15 times per each wheel and the brake pedal never gets firmer. After the brakes have been bled, I start the car up but the brake pedal goes completely to the floor....................NO BRAKES.

Are these cars this difficult to bleed the brakes??? I'm just baffled by all this. Any suggestions???
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Old 04-23-2015, 01:45 PM
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Default Re: Brake Bleeding

A couple thoughts:
  • Are bleeding them in order? (Start at the wheel furthest away from the MC, next furthest, etc.) If not, you may just be pushing an air bubble around.
  • Did you wire the proportioning valve "button" down? You need to do this to avoid trapping air
  • Did the MC run out of fluid at some point in the process (and thus maybe the MC actually needs a "bench" bleed?)

These cars are pretty easy, especially compared to stuff with ABS systems and TC systems on them (which are usually a PITA and/or require a digital scanner/service tool).
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1987 GN original owner 650+ HP Black
2015 BMW 328xi XDrive wagon
2012 Volkswagen Tiguan (the Tig!) Night Blue Met (sold)
2006 Trailblazer SS Red Jewel Tint 395 HP AWD (sold)
2014 Silverado LTZ Crew 4WD
2012 Honda VFR 1200F Tahitian Blue (sold)
2015 BMW S1000R Racing Red
2013 Honda CBR500R Red (wife's bike)
2014 Triumph Bonneville T100
2003 Harley Davidson V Rod Anniversary Edition
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Old 04-23-2015, 03:28 PM
JAMIEPACURN JAMIEPACURN is offline
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Default Re: Brake Bleeding

Ken,


I bled the wheels following the service manual starting at the rear of the car and progressed to the front brakes. I did not have the proportioning valve pressed in during the bleeding process so maybe that is the culprit to my problem. However, my powerbooster did run dry 1 time making the pump squeal like a pig.........................HUGE SIGH!!!!!

Well thanks for pointing out a couple of things for me to try and rectify this problem. What do you normally use to hold in the proportioning valve button??? I wish my Hydroboost master cylinder would get here so I can bench bleed that before installing it on my car and start from scratch again. Its tempting to just pay to have this done because my back is getting really tired of laying on concrete trying to fix these brakes. lol

Thank you for your tips Mr. Mosher!!!!


Jamie C.
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Old 04-23-2015, 03:30 PM
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Default Re: Brake Bleeding

I used a piece of wire and just wrapped it around ... if you could fit something like a big "C" Clamp up there or a welding clamp, that could work too.

Bring the car over to my place ... I have a lift!
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Ken Mosher
1987 GN original owner 650+ HP Black
2015 BMW 328xi XDrive wagon
2012 Volkswagen Tiguan (the Tig!) Night Blue Met (sold)
2006 Trailblazer SS Red Jewel Tint 395 HP AWD (sold)
2014 Silverado LTZ Crew 4WD
2012 Honda VFR 1200F Tahitian Blue (sold)
2015 BMW S1000R Racing Red
2013 Honda CBR500R Red (wife's bike)
2014 Triumph Bonneville T100
2003 Harley Davidson V Rod Anniversary Edition
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  #7  
Old 04-24-2015, 04:59 AM
JAMIEPACURN JAMIEPACURN is offline
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Default Re: Brake Bleeding

I might have to take you up on that offer. I do have a large C-clamp so will give that a try. Thank you for the tips and will let you know what happens. Giving my back a rest but will try again on Monday and Tuesday night.


Enjoy your weekend


Jamie C.
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  #8  
Old 04-24-2015, 07:12 PM
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Default Re: Brake Bleeding

Just a question... When you installed the new rear disc brake calipers did you make sure the caliper is installed so the bleeder valve is on top??? I have had people put the calipers in upside down with the bleeder on the bottom... You cannot get the air out that way... The brake pedal will always go to the floor because of the air in the caliper... Tom G.
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  #9  
Old 04-25-2015, 12:42 AM
JAMIEPACURN JAMIEPACURN is offline
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Default Re: Brake Bleeding

Tom,


The bleeder valves are located on top of the calipers but are angled downwards. The instructions state that the bleeder valve must be parallel to the ground for them to bled correctly, otherwise they will just suck and retain air. I'm hoping my problem is just the simple push of the button on the proportioning valve while bleeding the brakes. I just got word today that my new chrome Hydro-boost master cylinder will arrive this Monday so I will start from scratch. Its good bye forever PowerMaster!!! I will bench bleed the new Hydro-boost system then make sure the button on the proportioning valve is pressed in while bleeding the brakes. Thank you for thinking of the bleeder valve location for this possibly might help someone out in the future. I appreciate all the tips to make this new install a success. I simply can't wait to have total new brakes all the way around.


Enjoy your weekend boys and ride safe out there,


Jamie C.
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  #10  
Old 04-28-2015, 03:28 PM
JAMIEPACURN JAMIEPACURN is offline
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Default Hydro boost system

Okay guys, I got my chrome Hydro-Boost system installed minus the installation of the 4 braided lines that I still have to install. Is there anything differently I need to do when bleeding the brakes. Since there is no check valve in the master cylinder I'm letting gravity bleed the master cylinder. Do I need to still press the button on the proportioning valve when bleeding the brakes??? If there is anything I need to do differently please let me know. Feels great to get rid of that problematic power booster for good. If I would of known how unsafe that was I would gotten rid of that power booster a long time ago.


Thanks guys,


Jamie C.
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