Help me get started, literally

[Kyle M]

I have a 84 Buick T-Type all pretty much stock as far as I can tell.

So here is my problem...last time I ran this car was about 8 years ago, in fact it was about the time I bought it. Anyway, I bought it after it had sat for 3 years, put a battery in it, started up and drove it home. I did the regular things to maintain it, but shortly after purchasing I burned up my turbo, seals and bearings went bad. So I put a different turbo in it, drove it for about 2 weeks, then that one started leaking oil into the engine. That is about the time I parked it. It sat for a while, maybe 3 months and I went to start it and it wouldn't start. OK, so now it is 8 years later, still the same problems. I just always figured I fouled my plugs from the oil, but they still look brand new after pulling one. I am getting spark, but it looks weak to me. I can also hear the fuel pump run, so I am assuming I am getting fuel(8 year old fuel) and the plugs smell like gas. One thing I did notice was the waste gate vacuum line was unhooked, not sure when that happened.

I just want to know where I should start looking, I have pretty much no idea. Any ideas or things for me to look at, I will keep you updated so please help me out!!

[Keller]

So, let's see if I have this straight...

You have a car that has 8+ year old gas in it. You think the fuel pump works. Have you tested the fuel pressure?

You said the spark appears weak. Has it been tested somehow?

There are are three things that any motor needs to run: air, fuel, and spark. Proper airflow and MAF signal, adequate fuel pressure and flow, plus a strong spark at the proper time, are all important in getting these cars running.

Do you have access to a scan tool? What about a fuel pressure gauge?

[Kyle M]

Originally Posted by Keller

So, let's see if I have this straight...

You have a car that has 8+ year old gas in it. You think the fuel pump works. Have you tested the fuel pressure?

You said the spark appears weak. Has it been tested somehow?

There are are three things that any motor needs to run: air, fuel, and spark. Proper airflow and MAF signal, adequate fuel pressure and flow, plus a strong spark at the proper time, are all important in getting these cars running.

Do you have access to a scan tool? What about a fuel pressure gauge?

-I haven't tested for fuel pressure yet, I will get a gauge
-The spark looks weak by a visual standpoint, the color of the spart was a little orangish
-SHould I have it scanned? Can I do it myself?

[Keller]

- The color isn't a good indicator. Also note that there are three coils, and two plugs are fired each time. So one bad section of the coil or module takes you down to four good cylinders. Casper's Electronics makes a tester that can be used to test these setups, and an adapter for the 84-85 cars. You can also change to the 86-87 ignition with more readily available parts.
- Often having it scanned they will only tell you it has no 'codes'. Its the data you need to see. You can do it yourself with a good scan tool. Note that the ones for 84-85 cars are somewhat limited. You can change to a 86-87 ECM as well, and that expands your options (as well as the volume of data you will see) quite a bit.

[Kyle M]

Alright. I think I am going to pull it in the shop for the winter and basically go thru the whole car making sure all is good. Replace gaskets and hoses and vacuum lines ect. I am also going to rebuild the turbo. Once I get all this stuff in line, hopfully I can get it going. I appreciate your time and I will keep you all posted.

[Keller]

Originally Posted by Kyle M

I am also going to rebuild the turbo.

If you do, note that the rotating assembly must be balanced. Contact a local diesel truck shop to find out if they do this, or know someone who does. This only applies if you are not sending the turbo out for rebuild where they will do the balancing for you.

[Kyle M]

I was going to do it myself, but maybe I wont now...Thanks for the FYI

[Keller]

FWIW, getting is balanced is usually very inexpensive. A rebuild is not that much, all things considered. It can be much less than buying another turbo.

I just bought a used 'upgrade' turbo for my car, and wanted to put a Precision housing on it. After destroying the turbine backing plate in the process of disasembly, I took it to someone to have it rebuilt. The rebuild, including the balance, backing plate, and oversized bearings, not to mention bead blasting of the center section casting, came out to $150 or so.

I respect those who want to do their own rebuilds. No problems there. I just have known those who have had to have them done after because they did not have them balanced afterwards. An ounce of prevention prevents many pounds of cure.