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  #11  
Old 02-10-2010, 06:15 PM
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Ts86ttype Ts86ttype is offline
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Default Re: HVAC doesn't work

Mike, here goes...
A/C control head on Max or anything but off, fan switch in lowest position...

Brown wire at resistor block 12 volts.
Dark blue wire out 3 volts.
Purple wire at blower motor, plugged in, 3 volts... Motor should be running very slowly... Make sure it has a good ground... All the steps, purple wire plugged in.

Fan switch in medium 1, one step up from low...
Tan wire at resistor block 10 volts.
Dark blue out 6.0 volts.
Purple wire at blower 6.0 volts.

Fan switch in medium 2, two steps up from lowest.
Light blue wire 9.0 to 10.0 volts.
Dark blue out 8.0 volts.
Purple wire at blower 8.0 volts.

High blow.
Orange wire at the high blow relay 12.0 volts. That turns on the relay and the big red wire at the relay has 12.0 volts, that then goes out the purple wire to your blower motor and there is 12.0 volts there and the blower is going full bore...
Let us know what you find and then we can go after the A/C control... Tom G.
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2010, 10:51 PM
BYT86GN BYT86GN is offline
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Default Re: HVAC doesn't work

Tom I will give it another shot tomorrow. I believe I have done this check before based on the cd that I bought from you. Thanks for your time and help. Eventually I will figure this out and if not I'm just gonna fork over the money an have an electrician deal with it.
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  #13  
Old 02-12-2010, 12:12 AM
BYT86GN BYT86GN is offline
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Default Re: HVAC doesn't work

Tom here is what I did. I disconnected every thing from the dash head control all the way back to the relay. First I tested the connector behind the glove box. I put the key in run changed the selector to vent and I checked voltage at the brown wire spade. I got 12v there, then I moved the selector to the med low position and checked the light tan wire spade. I was still showing 12v there and 12v on the brown wire spade. I went to the next position med hi and checked the light blue wire spade and, I got 12v there as well as on the brown wire spade. I checked the hi positon and got 12v on the orange wire. I then reconnected the wire plugs behind the glove box and proceeded to the resistor terminals. I am getting 12v on all of them with the relay disconnected and the blower disconnected. I then connected the relay and I am getting 12v on the resistor wires and at the relay red, blue and purple wires. I got 12v on the orange wire at the relay when I moved the selector to Hi. Next I turned the key to the off position and reconnected the purple wire to the blower. I turned the key back to the on position and rechecked all the voltages. I am getting 6v on all wires except from the fusible link on the starter. In all positions the motor will not run. I disconnected the purple wire from the blower again and checked all voltages but nothing changed still showing 6v. I am gonna buy another blower motor and see if it will solve the problem. This is buggin the hell out of me cause the weather sucks down here.

Last edited by BYT86GN; 02-12-2010 at 12:22 AM.
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  #14  
Old 02-20-2010, 01:23 AM
BYT86GN BYT86GN is offline
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Default Re: HVAC doesn't work

Well guys I tried changing out the blower motor and I am still unable to get my blower to run and my a/c to turn on. I finally decided to take it to the dealorship and the technicians are puzzled as well. They basically spent the whole day checking everything I have done and they are unable to determine the problem. I will take the gn back to them next friday for some more ball scratchin.
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  #15  
Old 02-21-2010, 02:26 PM
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Default Re: HVAC doesn't work

Mike, When this first started you found that bad connector with the red and blue wire in it, did you cut the bad connector out and hard wire the two wires or just cleaned it up and put it back together??? The reason I ask is that you seem to be loosing voltage and currant flow... Currant flow is a big deal here... Blower motors take a great deal of currant to run...That is why in HIGH BLOW you use a relay to get full currant flow to the motor... Let me know... Tom G.
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  #16  
Old 02-22-2010, 03:02 PM
BYT86GN BYT86GN is offline
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Default Re: HVAC doesn't work

Tom when I found that corroded connector I went ahead and cut the connectors off and I used a coupling connector to put it back together. When I took my car to the dealorship they told me the blower was bad even though it was brand new. I am supposed to take it back to dealorship this friday. They are going to do some more testing. I will keep you informed when I find out something.
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  #17  
Old 03-03-2010, 11:21 PM
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Default Re: HVAC doesn't work

Well I wanted to give you guys an update. I got my car back from the dealorship and after 257$ they finally found out what was wrong with my car. Or so they say. They tried to tell me that they replaced my blower switch and compressor relay. I wanted to speak to the mechanic that did the work on my car but unfortunately he was out test driving other cars. When I drove my car home I did some digging around to see what was all done. Come to find out that all they did was jumper the brown wire going to the resistor to the brown wire for the trunk release. They also did not replace any of the relays and switches they claim.
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  #18  
Old 03-04-2010, 08:53 PM
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Default Re: HVAC doesn't work

Mike, The brown wire to the trunk release is also fed from the A/C 25 amp fuse... Sounds like you were loosing currant flow from the fan switch to the resistor block and the easy way was to put in a good power source, the brown wire from your trunk release... The one place I see that you could loose currant would be at the connector that is right behind the glove box... It has the wires from your A/C control head... It is a 6 cavity connector, but I believe only 5 are being used... Check it out and see if it has a burnt wire or connector in the brown wire position... If that is were they but the jumper that that might be a place to fix... I would still ask the dealer and mechanic what is going on... Just my Tom G.
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  #19  
Old 03-20-2010, 05:17 AM
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Default Re: HVAC doesn't work

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ts86ttype View Post
Mike, The brown wire to the trunk release is also fed from the A/C 25 amp fuse... Sounds like you were loosing currant flow from the fan switch to the resistor block and the easy way was to put in a good power source, the brown wire from your trunk release... The one place I see that you could loose currant would be at the connector that is right behind the glove box... It has the wires from your A/C control head... It is a 6 cavity connector, but I believe only 5 are being used... Check it out and see if it has a burnt wire or connector in the brown wire position... If that is were they but the jumper that that might be a place to fix... I would still ask the dealer and mechanic what is going on... Just my Tom G.
Sorry for the late reply Tom. I have been busy been busy at work and my daughters Tee-ball. What you said is correct. I suspected that the brown wire was bad which is what I intially told the dealorship mechanics. Instead of getting a new harness they opted to just jumper the wires. When I get a chance I will take some photos of their fancy work. I did argue with them about the price justification since all they did was put on a temporary band-aid. But you know how they work if you complain about the price they will just find another way to justify the fees. In their case the standard answer was that they charged me for a minimum of 4 hours labor. Which I thought was covered under their diagnostic fees. In all it was a lesson learned which I hope I will never have to repeat. Thanks for all your help
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