So the engine is out and apart at the machine shop.. what do I need to tell him...

[PhillyTurboSix]

Tearing apart my 86 GN and I'm using a machine shop that has done several of the turbo Buick blocks over time but I want to make sure he is clear on how these engines are not put together like a chebby 350. I printed out the torque specs for everything off the site here and he matched them up with his and all good. I printed out the page with all the clearance numbers on here all looks good to him.

I want to school this guy well on the turbo Buick blocks and rebuilding them as much as I can with making them a better block and doing the best possible rebuild. One question I had was about the oil passages thru the block. He said he just cleans them out well but is there something else? Any other tips and or tricks I can alert my machine shop about when building one of these engines? I'm going with a stock rebuild. TRW pistons, hyd cam, and maybe some Teflon coated cam, main, and rod bearings. Just want to make sure I'm covering all my bases with this guy.. Anything else??

[Keller]

I think the big things that shops need to be kept aware of are:

- How tight Buick motors need to be. They are very tight compared to Chevy engines, and they are supposed to be. Looser is not better.

- The oil pump setup is critical to motor longevity. A high pressure from the pump is not necessarily "better". If you are concerned they might botch it, consider getting a cover and pump already assembled from TA. A little pricey, but no worries then.

- Using GM lifters may help your cam last. I'd suggest using them if at all possible. Soak them in oil 24 hours before installing them. Due to use of a hydraulic cam, be sure to do the break in procedure once in the car.

[PhillyTurboSix]

I've been doing some research and lots of reading. I want to make sure it's right. With a stock build, stock turbo, and stock wastegate I want this thing to last a long time.

I did pick up one of those front covers by Earl Brown. So it's a new GM front cover blueprinted and cleaned up with whatever pump he uses. So I'm hoping to cover all my oil pump issues.

another question is the front of the block where the cam gear walks into the block. How do you measure that for wear and how can you tell if there is an issue there? I see a lot of blocks with wear there but mine looks fine. Looks like the cam walked into the front cover more then anything.

Here is a pic of the cover I took off...



Is that normal? Bad? I'm using the cover over so I'm not worried but just curious. This engine had about 80K original miles on it. Unopened. Looks like a cam lobe went out #3 I think and then that lead to some main bearings getting wiped out as well.

Here is the front of the block....



Close up...

[Keller]

As far as where the cam nose/gear contacts the front cover, the solution there (with a hydraulic cam) is to use a spring loaded roller cam button, such as those used in the FWD V6 cars. The GM part number is in the parts list on this site. Can't guarantee it is still available because GM is cutting the parts list back to an 8 year max for many parts. However, I do believe there is a Cloyes equivalent. And probably other makers as well.

[PhillyTurboSix]

Looks like it's discontinued from GM but I found it on a part locator for 20 bucks.

[kenmosher]

You can also epoxy a small steel disk/washer in the wear "dish" and then use the roller cam button.

[PhillyTurboSix]

This engine builder uses Melling cams. Any input on those? Good? Bad? You know how it is with cams and these cars! Seems the parts locater was out of that spring loaded roller cam button

Also for Pistons.. JE or TRW forged?

[Ts86ttype]

Can't tell you much about the Melling cam, but I did see the cam button at Fullthrottle speed sight for about 16.00 plus shipping... Tom G.

[Keller]

Melling is well known for their oil pumps. Everything I can find regarding their cams seem to pan them. Why not stick with known brands for the Buicks?

Chances are the Full Throttle cam button is a Cloyes part. Pretty sure Mike Licht was the one that gave the part # here several years ago. Have one on the shelf somewhere...

[PhillyTurboSix]

Originally Posted by Ts86ttype

Can't tell you much about the Melling cam, but I did see the cam button at Fullthrottle speed sight for about 16.00 plus shipping... Tom G.

Thanks for the info! Telling my builder about them now to see if he can locate one or I'll hit up FT.

Originally Posted by Keller

Melling is well known for their oil pumps. Everything I can find regarding their cams seem to pan them. Why not stick with known brands for the Buicks?

Chances are the Full Throttle cam button is a Cloyes part. Pretty sure Mike Licht was the one that gave the part # here several years ago. Have one on the shelf somewhere...

I did hear how good Melling oil pumps are from a few people. I asked him to get me pricing on a Comp cam. I'm trying to be a nice customer to my engine builder and let him order all the parts and make a few dollars on them. So far all his prices are in range. You know how it is when you go to an engine builder with all your own parts. Something fails and they say.. well you got the parts! So being a good customer I'm trying to work with him with all the parts as much as I can

Thanks for the input. I'm hoping to do a little more research and pull the trigger Monday to have him start.

Also....

What do you guys think about having a align bore done? I'm not going to do any billet caps. I figure it's going to be a stock build with stock turbo but I am going with another crank due to the damage on mine. I picked up a std/std crank and rods from a low mile GN. Because I'm changing the crank do I need an align bore? It's an extra $450 bucks for the machine work plus if I go there might as well drop in a few billet caps but in my overall budget for this project it's going to send me over the top. What do you think?

Thanks again for the input!