Cam Installation Tips
Mike Smith - trbomike@mounet.com
You Will Need
To install a cam in a Turbo Regal you need the following:
  • Cam of your choice
  • Timing chain and gears
  • Updated cam bearing (needle) and spring
  • New chain tensioner Lifters
  • Front cover gaskets
  • Valve cover gaskets
  • Intake gasket
  • "Red" cam break-in lube
  • Antifreeze
  • Motor oil
  • Filter
  • Petroleum jelly
  • Sealer

Basic hand tools are all that is needed. Air tools speed the process.
Procedure
  1. First, disconnect battery,drain the coolant and motor oil.
  2. Remove the intercooler and support brackets.
  3. Remove the radiator hoses, and the radiator, and fan assembly.
  4. Get the engine on TDC, compression stroke. Remove the intake (you can leave all sensors, fuel injectors, and fuel rail installed on the intake).
  5. Unplug the injector wiring connector ( not each injector), fuel lines (It's easier to go ahead and remove the fuel pressure regulator completely) disconnect the coolant sensor (two wires) Fan high speed temp sensor connector, Temp light connector, Cam sensor connector, crank sensor connector and remove it from the retaining clip (if still installed), remove the connector from the boost control solenoid and the oil pressure switch. All the wiring should be able to be pulled to the drivers side, out of the way. If this is your first time doing this repair, you might want to mark or take a picture of the wire routing, and vacuum hose routing.
  6. Note two studs. One is larger than the other. The largest stud will go on the passenger side, where the engine pulling hook is bolted. The smaller side goes on the drivers side to hold the EGR solenoid.
  7. Remove coilpack. You may want to mark the plug wires, but each cylinder is marked on the coilpack.
  8. Remove the heater hoses from the heater core on the firewall.
  9. Remove the intake retaining bolts. Lift the intake off the engine.
  10. Remove and discard the old intake gasket.
  11. Remove the valve covers. Drivers side "may" require removing the alternator.
  12. Remove the rocker arm assembly and push rods.
  13. Now the worst is over. To get to the cam you must remove the accessory belt (if not done already)intercooler fan, and harmonic balancer. The balancer can be a task without the aid of air tools.
  14. Remove the balancer,and water pump pulley.
  15. Remove the oil filter, and oil cooler.
  16. Remove the 3 bolts on the front of the oil pan.
  17. Remove the bolts that hold the cover onto the block. (note: there is a bolt sort hidden, or counter sunk on the passenger side.)
  18. Remove the cover.
  19. Remove the cam button, spring, and tensioner. Note the timing marks on the cam and crank sprocket. the dots "should be facing each other.
  20. Remove the cam sprocket bolts.
  21. Remove the cam sprocket, crank sprocket and chain.
  22. Remove the lifters. You can turn the cam to get the lifters up enough to grab them.
  23. Remove the camshaft.

 To install: Reverse the order of removal.

 Special notes:

  1. When installing the front cover make SURE you don't forget the "tin" cover that slides over the crankshaft after the crank gear.
  2. Pack the oil pump in petroleum jelly to insure oil pressure.
  3. Be careful when sliding the cover on not to push the oil pan gasket into the engine.
  4. Coat all the cover and water pump bolts with a Teflon sealer.
  5. Torque the balancer bolt to 200ft pounds. Don't forget the cam button and spring.
  6. Set the cam sensor according to Web page procedure.
  7. While the cover is off it may be a good time to replace the front "rope" seal with a neoprene.
Break In Procedure
Knock on wood, I've never had a cam lobe wipe. What I do may seem like overkill but it's easier and cheaper than doing the job twice plus possibly a motor.

I always use the "Red" cam break-in lube. I don't like the moly grease type engine lube for cam break-in. Perfect Circle, Competion Cams, etc makes it. I totally cover the cam in the lube. After sliding the cam in, I even add more lube to the lobes through the holes in the block. I let the lifters sit submerged in a pan of clean motor oil over night (if possible). I wipe the excess oil off, add break-in lube to the bottom and side of the lifters. I slide the lifter in and out and spin it in the lifter bore to insure that it's not binding. Make sure you add lube to the inside of the cam, in front of the first cam bearing, where the cam meets the block. Make sure you clean and blow dry,with compressed air, the rocker arm assembly and push rods. I add a dab of lube on each end of the pushrods, under each rocker arm assembly, and on top each valve stem.
Running Procedure
You really need a helper person for "fire up". Make sure you add oil, new filter, and antifreeze. Instruct your helper to look for leaks first, and to check every few minutes for leaks. Make sure he continues to add coolant and the engine heats up and purges the air pockets. Start the engine. Bring the rpms up to between 2500-3000 rpms. You may hear some lifter noise the first few minutes or so. It's normal. Hold the rpms steady for around 20-30 minutes. You helper should be looking for leaks, and adding fluid. You should be listen to the engine, watching oil pressure, rpm, and coolant temp. After around 20 minutes I reduce the rpm to around 2000. After 30 minutes I let the car idle. It may idle rough because of the battery being unhooked. Try to keep it around 1000 rpms for around 5 minutes. Turn the engine off. Check the oil level, check for leaks. I always let the engine cool completely down (I know, I'm weird.) I then restart and go for a test drive. Drive normal, just cruise for a hundred miles or so. Change the oil and filter and your ready to go.

Special note: When installing a cam, it is wise to degree it in. It's a painstaking job, but it assures you that the cam is ground correctly. As time permits and may send a note on doing that process.

I hope I remembered everything and explained this simple enough. It's not a hard job. A novice should be able to complete this task in one day.


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