You will need the following:

• Timing chain set
• Oil filter
• Oil
• Coolant
• New tensioner
• Teflon sealer
• Updated cam button
• Gasket sealer
• Front cover gasket set
• 6" of 5/8" heater hose and clamp
• Front seal
• Oil pump priming tool

Some extras to be considered:

• Thermostat
• RMI treatment
• Radiator hoses
• New water pump (cheap)
• Bypass hose
• Biggie oil filter kit
• Front heater hose

1. Drain the coolant and the engine oil
2. Remove intercooler and shroud
3. Remove air intake system but can leave the throttle body in place.
4. Remove intercooler fan and the fan adapter
5. Loosen the water pump (WP) pulley bolts
6. Pull back the tensioner and remove the drive belt.
7. Remove the WP pulley and the lower pulley
8. Remove the upper and lower radiator hose from the engine side; support out of harms way.
9. Loosen the bypass hose and the front heater hose (the one connected to the front cover.)
10. With a catch pan ready, remove the WP bolts.

    TIP: Set out the new WP and place the bolts in the corresponding holes as they are removed from the old one.

11. Remove the nuts that support the wiring harness along the bottom of the engine.
12. Remove the second nuts on each stud that hold the intercooler brackets; remove brackets.
13. Remove the lower studs and note the different length.
14. Using a 1 ¹/₈" socket, break loose the harmonic balancer bolt.
    
    TIP: If an impact gun is not available, disconnect the ECM power wire (orange wire near the battery) and place the socket/breaker bar on the bolt and rotate the engine until the breaker bar is positioned just below the car frame on the passenger side. Once in position, quickly tap the key to engage the starter.
    
    
15. Rotate the engine to TDC on #1 compression stroke.
    
    TIP: The driver’s side breather can be removed and the intake valve on cylinder #1 can then be seen. If the intake valve is closed as zero on the timing tab is coming up, then you are on the correct stroke.
    
    
16. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt.
17. Verify the engine is still at TDC and then slide off the balancer.
18. Remove the 2 screws that hold the cam sensor cap on. Note the wiring on the cap is pointed towards the driver’s side.
19. Remove the cap and note the reluctor window is also pointed towards the driver’s side and approximately centered between the screw holes.
20. Remove the cam sensor retaining bolt and the cam sensor.
    
    TIP: It may be easier to wiggle the cam sensor and bolt at the same time.
    
    
21. Disconnect oil cooler lines from the front cover. A plastic baggie can be taped over the ends to catch any oil.
22. Loosen the pinch bolt on the crank sensor and remove the sensor.
23. Have a coolant catch pan ready and remove the remaining front cover bolts noting location.
24. Remove the front 3 oil pan bolts that thread into the front cover.
25. Check and double check that all bolts are removed (especially the short sunken one on the passenger side) and then lightly tap the cover with a rubber mallet until it pops loose. Slight prying may be necessary to get the cover free from the alignment pins.
26. Stuff shop rags into the oil pan to catch debris (or the cam button!)
27. Remove the cam button, the 2 bolts that hold on the upper timing gear, and the oil deflector.
28. Remove the upper gear from the cam and at the same time wiggle off the lower gear.
29. Remove the old chain tensioner.
30. Verify the shop rags are still in place to catch gasket debris and then start scrapping.
31. Once all the old gasket is removed, remove the shop rags and put on the new chain tensioner, timing chain (installed dot to dot), oil deflector, and cam button. Don’t forget the OIL DEFLECTOR.
32. Lightly "tack" the new gasket to the block using a VERY LITTLE AMOUNT of gasket sealer. Verify no oil passages have been partially blocked, clean them out with a tooth pick if necessary.
33. Check the oil pan gasket and replace the exposed part if necessary.
34. Clean up the front cover assembly.
    
    NOTE: It is NOT NECESSARY to disturb the oil pump assembly.
    
    
35. Replace the front seal and install the biggie oil filter kit if you have one (It is not necessary to replace the oil cooler adapter "O" ring unless yours leaks).
36. Clean up all bolts and put Teflon sealer on the ones for the WP and front cover to prevent leaks.
37. Carefully maneuver the front cover into position and line it up with the alignment pins. Be sure the gaskets don’t get folded up as the cover is being positioned.
    
    TIP: It may be necessary to loosen the oil pan bolts slightly to allow the pan to drop down a little. This will help prevent the oil pan gasket from getting pushed into the pan upon reassembly.
    
    
38. Start several bolts in different areas to help verify the gaskets are still in position. Note: the cover will not sit flush until the bolts are snugged because of the cam button pushing on it. Also, don’t forget the crank sensor bracket.
39. Slide the harmonic balancer back on and install the bolt. A little thread locker can be added to the threads for a little insurance.
40. Torque the bolt to 220 ft/lbs. If air tools are not available, obtain 2 bolts that fit snuggly into the holes around the outside perimeter of the balancer. Position a heavy-duty pry bar or pipe in between the bolts and wedge the bar against the floor on the driver’s side. This will hold the engine while the bolt is being tightened.
41. Re-install the oil cooler lines but leave the upper hose disconnected from the radiator.
42. Install the oil filter and fill the crankcase with 3 quarts of oil.
43. To prime the oil pump, take the 6" piece of heater hose and slide it over the oil cooler line and secure it with a clamp. Place a funnel into the hose and fill it with oil until the air bubbles stop coming up. Rotate the engine backwards until about a quart of oil has been sucked into the engine. Once complete, reinstall the oil cooler line and fill the crankcase with the remaining 1-2 quarts of oil. Prime the remaining parts of the oil system by spinning the oil pump with a drill motor until oil is observed coming out of the pushrod holes (will take a few minutes).
44. Rotate the engine back to TDC #1 and slide the cam sensor and retaining bolt back into place. The notch in the cam sensor body should be pointed towards the passenger side and the reluctor window should be positioned approximately between the 2 screw holes and pointing towards the driver’s side. The oil pump rod may need to be turned slightly to align it with the cam sensor slot.
45. Plug the orange ECM wire back in and set the cam sensor per instructions on the Web page.
46. Reinstall the crank sensor and set per instructions on the Webpage.
    
    TIP: The box top from the chain tensioner can be used instead of the feeler gages.
    
    
47. Verify the 2 alignment pins are in the block and not still stuck in the WP. The pins will hold the gasket in place, no sealer is required.
48. Reinstall the remaining equipment.
49. Start the engine and watch to make sure the oil light goes out after a couple of seconds.
50. Fill the coolant system and check for leaks.