NOTE: This procedure will only work on a car with a console mounted shifter.

1. Disconnect the battery. I used an Autometer isolator and mechanical 0-100 psi "fuel pressure" gauge.
2. I mounted the isolator to the bracket where the power steering reservoir is mounted using the existing factory bolt.
3. I depressurized the fuel rail and removed the shrader valve.
4. I used a hose that is 15" long.
5. I connected the hose to the fuel rail with A -6 Earl's Perform-O-Flex line and two 90* hose ends.
6. Before installing the second hose end, I covered the hose with a piece of firesleeve to protect the wire harness from abrasion. Black split wire harness conduit would also work.
7. I then mounted the gauge onto the steering column using a gauge cup and a hose clamp. Make sure the gauge will clear the column when the tilt feature is used.
8. I connected the gauge to the isolator using -3 Earls Speed-Flex line with straight hose ends and a 90 degree adapter on the gauge.
9. Since my car doesn't have cruise control, I used the knock out plug in the firewall below the steering column to run the line to the gauge.
10. Before mounting the isolator, fill the line from the isolator to the gauge using an antifreeze/water mixture. Hold the isolator higher than the gauge to purge the air out. I used an eyedropper.
11. I wired the gauge light to the headlamp switch. To get around the steering column lower bowl rotating, I completely removed the linkage from the column to the transmission and also removed the bracket that is on the brake combination valve.
12. I drilled a 1/16" hole into the metal bracket for the wire harness that is located below the master cylinder.
13. I then safety wired the lever to this metal bracket so the column was always in "park".
14. I removed the P/N switch from the column since it was no longer functional.
15. To get reverse lights, P/N signal to the ECM and a safety start, I got a shifter from a wrecked automatic Firebird/Camaro- all of these functions are on a shifter mounted switch.
16. I cut off the bracket from the F-car. I cut a slot in the GN shifter handle so the tang from the F-car switch would go into it.
17. I clamped the new switch bracket to the GN shifter with a pair of Vise-Grips. Then checked it with an ohm meter to make sure all of the switch functions occur correctly with the shifter in each position.
18. Weld the bracket to the shifter. The bracket itself has slotted mountings for small adjustments.
19. I then made a wire harness with 18 gauge wire using the correct GM mating connectors and terminals from the GN's P/N input and reverse lamp connectors over to the correct wires in the F-car switch.
20. I then removed the purple wire from the ignition switch and used 10 gauge wire to go to the F-car switch and back to the ignition switch for the safety start.

The wiring connections look like this:

F-car switch	G/N wiring on column	Function
A	Orange/black	P/N input to ecm
B	Black/white	.
C	Light green	Reverse lamps
D	Dark blue	.
E	Purple	Safety start
F	.	Wire to term S on ignition switch