Either leaded or unleaded, a must for running seriously with any Turbo Regal. It's simple, the better the fuel, the faster you can run (more boost, less detonation, etc.) Not to mention it smells great! Don't go to the track with your pants down, be ready to run quick and go fast!
Be sure to have at least a 1/4 tank (preferably a 1/2 tank) of gas in the car when you stage! Otherwise, you can run into fuel starvation problems on the launch when the fuel sloshes to the back of the tank.
Fuel rail drain hose
Most guys can't afford to run racing gas on the street, and if you have any drive at all to the track, you will want to drain your fuel, and put in the race gas once your in the gate. A 4 or 5' length of 3/8" clear hose works fine for this purpose. It will slip on to the end of the fuel rail (always use a clamp!)
Run the fuel pump to empty the tank, by using an insulated wire to jumper between the GRAY test connector (in the wiring harness up by the alternator) and the HOT terminal on the back of the alternator. By using the clear hose, you can look for bubbles in the output from the fuel rail to tell when the tank is getting down to the last drop. Don't run the tank 100% dry, since the pump may cavitate enough to damage it.
Slicks or Sticky DOTs
Another must have item. To run quick and fast, you need to be able to launch hard! You simply cannot do that consistently on a stock radial. When you've got race fuel, good air, and the car tuned just right, you don't want to waste it all by going up in smoke.
For stock geared cars well into the 11s, it is often best to run a 26" tall tire. The Mickey Thompson 10"x26"x15" tall slick is good for very low 12 and faster cars. A mid/high 12 car can get away with the 8.5"x26"x15" M/T. 28" tall tires can be used, but can kill the launch in a mid 12 or slower car.
Hoosier and BFG both make some excellent DOT rated sticky tires as well. See the FAQ for more discussion of tires.
A paper clip? Well, I know there is controversy on this subject, I can only speak from experience. Locking up the torque converter has always been worth a solid 2 tenths (YES, TWO TENTHS FROM A PAPER CLIP!) at the track. Some say breakage can occur, which comes from the fact that you are working the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) on the shifts by locking it up at WOT. This can eventually burn out the clutches, but at the typical "Recipe Car" level, the stock converter will take this treatment for several hundred runs.
Open exhaust vs. Closed exhaust
This is another controversial item. A lot of people are going very fast (well into the 10s) through full exhaust. While Dave thinks this is really cool, he likes to be able to hear his car during the run. When he has run with mufflers, his performance has always dropped (at least a 10th) and he finds that he tends to over-rev the car on the burnout, during shifts, etc.
Ken, on the other hand, prefers a premium high flow exhaust system. It can work every bit as good as open exhaust and is a great for the stealth approach. Nobody ever expects these performance levels out of a quiet car!
Remember your favorite Race Chip to take advantage of the better fuel and higher boost levels. Be sure to unplug the orange wire up by the battery to power down the ECM before changing chips. Also, touch something metal before handling the chips to avoid a static charge zapping your chip or ECM.
Be sure to monitor your runs! Without a scan tool, all you can do is guess at what the car is needing and it will take more runs to dial it in and get maximum performance. It may take several trips to the track to get a feeling for the way fuel pressure, boost, chips, and air interact. Data from your runs and careful logging of track conditions, air conditions, temperature, humidity, barometric pressure, etc. in a spiral notebook is recommended. That way you can relate accurate information to others to help you tune.