Basic Alignment Theory
Sara Ramos - sramos@worldnet.att.net
Toe In, Camber, Caster and Steering Linkage Wear Checks
This article is very basic. It is designed to educate the novice Turbo Regal owner on basic terminology involving front wheel alignment. In addition, basic checks for wear are described at the end of the article for help in finding defective components. These checks are by no means complete, yet provide the user with a quick way to check for the most common wear points in the steering linkage, and suspension.

Among automobile performance enthusiasts, adjustments and tuning are often part of the game plan in order to go faster. While it is certainly possible to purchase some speed parts, bolt them on, and go racing - most would agree that tuning a particular combination properly, can often bring about the full potential of the modifications done to a car. Few savvy tuners would install a set of spark plugs without checking/adjusting the spark gap, yet it would be fair to say that most people take wheel alignment, and its affect on performance for granted. A properly setup alignment for a given combination can provide a faster and safer journey down the race track. Please keep in mind that worn suspension components like shocks, springs, bushings, tie rods, ball joints, etc.. can have a tremendous effect on the way your car launches, and travels at speed. It should go without saying that worn suspension components (especially the steering linkage) are a hazard on any car, much less one going more than 100
mph down a track. The following definitions should help you better understand why alignment is important.

TOE is our first definition.

It can be either IN or OUT. Our cars are always setup with toe IN. This is why:

TOE in, is used to compensate for the "pull" created by the car moving down the road (road drag). Almost all cars are set up with a small amount of toe in to insure that normal deflection of bushings, and other componentry is taken up so that the wheels travel down the road with close to zero toe. In case anyone doesn't know what "toe in/out" refers to - it's simple. Toe in is where the front of the tires are closer together than the back of the tires (only adjustable on the front tires of a Turbo Regal.. other cars have both front and back toe adjustments.), like a person who is pigeon toed. Their feet rotate inward towards each other.. FYI: It is much tougher to fix
excessive "toe in" on a human than on a car.

Anyway, TOE IN is extremely important to the way your car handles at speed. Excessive toe out (indeed, ANY toe out from worn suspension bushings, etc..) will make the car feel very unstable at speed. The toe in contributes to a feeling of stability and a bit of understeer when a turn begins. FYI, a car with worn and cracked suspension a-arm bushings, etc.. will tend to veer off the road more easily.

IMPORTANT: please keep in mind that an alignment job on a car with worn or defective steering components is a waste of time and money and will NOT correct the instability inherent to worn componentry (basic checks for wear follow..). Also, the downpipe on our cars is notorious for burning out the bushings on the upper passenger side A-arm and causing handling problems (typically, the car wanders off the road easily, sometimes pronounced during braking..). If budget permits, these sensitive bushings should be replaced with a material that is more resistant to heat. If your going to that much trouble though, it might be best to just replace all the bushings at one time. The car will handle much better.


CAMBER, is our next definition:

CAMBER is a bit easier to understand, it is simply the inward (toward center of car) or outward tilt of the top of the tires (which of course are connected to the bottom, but this serves to distinguish from the in and out of "toe" setting). If the tops of the tires tilt inwards, the car is said to have negative camber, if they tilt outwards, positive camber. Purpose of camber, like the other settings (toe, caster, etc..), is to provide as much tire contact patch during a variety of cornering situations as possible. A tire can only apply its maximum adhesion if all of the tread available is loaded as equally as possible. Many cars are setup with zero or a bit of negative camber, the negative camber helps offset suspension deflection and other forces that tend to cause the steering tires to roll over onto their sidewalls. In addition, race cars, whose weight transfer characteristics are better than a slower car tend to lift the front end and cause a transient handling characteristic known as "scrub". Ideally, you want the least rolling resistance possible. Faster cars are generally set up with a more generous negative camber setting to insure no extra rolling resistance when the car is going down the track, it can be worth several hundredths in the quarter mile (and significantly more if you run street wide tires as opposed to those dinky pizza cutters..).

The ideal alignment specs for the Turbo Regal will depend on its weight, front end travel, and intended usage (drag racing, autocross, etc..). Suffice to say that no one alignment spec is perfect for all cars at all times. Compromises must be made. For example, the typical autocrosser would perhaps setup her front end alignment with a bit more negative camber than a normal daily driver street car. The extra negative camber helps keep the tires planted with as much available tread as possible during high speed cornering (due to deflection in bushings, body roll, etc..). Unfortunately, setting up a car in this way can cause abnormal tire wear during normal street driving as the tires are no longer planted as flatly when driving in the normally more sedate (read: slower) manner seen on the street. The same holds true for the die hard drag racer, who sets up her car with just enough negative camber and toe in to insure the least rolling resistance (scrub) by the tires during maximal acceleration - when the cars front end during launch is typically a bit (sometimes alot..bumper dragging, sparks..) higher due to weight transfer and inertial loading of the rear of car.


CASTER is our next definition.

CASTER, seems to be tougher for most people to picture. It is simply where the tires center of drag is in relation to the upper and lower steering point linkage. In other words, a car with positive caster in relation to a theoretical vertical line would have its upper steering linkage (where upper ball joint is..) behind the lower linkage (lower ball joint). This measurement is in degrees and is generally not visible to the naked eye. It must be measured with precision instruments. Most cars are setup with positive caster, this helps harness a normal physical force (physics, please be patient..) that tends to return the wheels to the direction the car is traveling (self centering force). This feeling of "self centering" is so universal in cars today that one might take it for granted until they felt a car that had negative caster. This self centering action results in a car that feels much more stable and less inclined to wander. Often this and the other relationships (camber, etc..) are staggered a bit to compensate for normal road crowning - to keep the car going straight ahead.. A car will pull to the side that has the least amount of caster. Too much caster causes a feeling of excessive road shock and possible shimmy, along with slower steering response. Caster is often toyed with a bit to help or hinder steering response in a car with or without power steering. Front wheel drive cars generally do not have any caster adjustment possible, as the wheel offset and toe setting are much more critical in a car with inherent torque steer tendencies like most front wheel drive cars have due to their design.

Basic Suspension Checks

It's easy to check for steering linkage wear on the TR's.. Jack up a front tire and shake the tire in and out, along with up and down. Anything more than perhaps 1/8 of an inch should be checked out - I find that a patient boyfriend is a must in these situations. Have them shake the wheels while you observe the steering linkage for movement. Grasp the tie rod ends and move them around, if there is excessive slop and movement, they should be replaced. Also check centerlink, and ball joints for wear. The ball joints have wear indicators on them that can help determine their condition - consult manual..

Sloppiness in the idler arm and pitman arm (connected to the centerlink.. the longest rod under the car that moves when you turn the steering wheel.) is a bit tougher to check, however, if you have sloppiness in the other components, it might be best to replace the idler arm and pitman as well (they have the same number of miles as everything else..) Anyway, check both sides, if you haven't been greasing the linkage joints regularly - they might need replacement. Obviously, all these components will wear out no matter what you do, just keep in mind that having a car with worn steering components is VERY unsafe in any car, let alone one raced. A broken tie rod end will surely result in an accident, regardless of how talented a driver you are. Check and minimize the risk.

Also, since its easy to do, check the shocks and springs. Worn shocks will typically allow the springs to bounce up and down excessively while driving (excessive oscillation not being dampened by the shocks..). Check for obvious damage such as leakage (typically not seen on gas charged shocks, they just fail..), broken or rusty shock spindles (on front), and of course the bounce test. Push down the bumpers in rapid succession, let go and observe, if the car continues to bounce more than once or twice, shocks are probably worn.. Replace.

For the springs, check for sagginess on one side (usually right rear), or significant ride height loss.. (Some people pay good money for this dropped look..). Make sure that if it seems like the rear springs are bad, that it is not just the rubber spring rests that have rotted away.. They are significantly cheaper than new springs and simple enough to replace.

Lastly, check the control arm bushings. These bushings rot, or otherwise go bad due to heat, ozone, chemical contamination, etc.. Look for cracks along the rubber surfaces, if they are radial in nature and seem to look more than superficial, replace. Our cars are getting older now, and things such as bushings may not seem like a very important thing, but they dramatically affect the way your car handles, especially on the front. Some otherwise unexplainable tire wear (after alignments, shocks, etc..), is often the result of worn control arm bushings (A-arms). It can also cause the car to veer left or right during acceleration, and braking (bleeding brakes for the fifth time, or replacing other brake components will NOT help this type of problem, but alot of folks assume that if the car pulls during stopping.. it must be the brakes..doesn't hurt to check bushings if brakes seem ok..)

Finally, please keep in mind that checking for wear costs nothing but your time, and it is unfortunate that many people just wait for a critical component like their steering linkage to fail (yes..steering IS important even on a straight track..) before checking.. "YEP, it WAS the left tie rod end that broke and caused the car to slam into the barrier at 120 mph, BOY!, that new $700 turbo really gave me some MPH...huh?, yeah I know a tie rod only costs $15....but it don't help my car go faster..."

Wouldn't it be a shame to lose a TR or your life over a $15 dollar tie rod?

Any questions, e-mail.


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