How to Remove Your Stock "C" Clip Axles
Chris Fasulo (KILR V6) - cfasulo@ime.net
Tools and Supplies Needed
  • Jack
  • Jack Stands
  • 3/8" ratchet and socket set
  • Hammer
  • Catch pan
  • Long straight blade screw driver
  • Pry bar
  • Needle nose pliers
  • New rear end cover gasket
  • RTV - 2 quarts of rear end lube
  • 1 bottle (4oz) of limited slip additive (posi carriers ONLY)
  • Rags

Disassembly and Inspection
  1. Loosen all rear wheel lug nuts
  2. Jack and properly support the rear end
  3. Remove both rear wheels, remove both rear break drums
  4. Place a drain pan under the rear end
  5. Remove the 10 bolts from the rear end cover and allow fluid to drain
  6. Place transmission in neutral
  7. Rotate driveshaft/carrier unit until you have access to the bolt that holds the center pin of the spider gears.
  8. Remove the bolt completely
  9. The center pin needs to be removed or at least pulled out far enough to clear the outside diameter of the end of the axles. Depending on how much wheel spin you car has seen, removal of this pin will either be easy or require a good bit of hammering to get it out!

    During wheel spin (burn outs/street fun) the spider gears spin on the center pin and scar it up. A pin in "perfect" condition will almost drop out by itself after the bolt holding the pin is removed. If this is not the case, you need to tap the pin out of the carrier.

    The problem/tricky part is the pin is too long to tap out from the bottom to the top of the carrier as it will hit the rear end housing. You can't really tap it out from the top down either as you can't get anything on the pin from the top to tap it out!

    What I do is tap the pin out from the bottom to the top as far as it will go. Rotate the carrier so the pin just clears the rear end housing. After this you need to do whatever it takes to get the pin past the outside diameter of the axles--you may be able to now grab the pin with your hand and just yank it out!

    If the pin just will not come out, you will have to cut it, rotate it back into the housing and keep tapping (probably pounding at this point!) from the bottom up until the remaining piece of pin come out or is clear of the end of the axles. Replacement pins are available. (thanks to list member Robert Caruth for this this tip!)
  10. Once the pin is clear of the axles, you need to push in on the axles out at the wheels. This will allow access the "C" clips that hold the axles in the side gears of the carrier. Pull the "C" clip off both axles--needle nose pliers are helpful.
  11. Once the "C" clips are removed you can slide the axles out--use a bit of care as there are bearings and seals at the ends of the axle tubes.
  12. Wheel studs really should be removed and installed using a press. NAPA did it for me for $12--I provided the new studs. You can do this yourself. Just make sure you support the axle flanges while removing/installing the new studs.
Reassembly
  1. Make sure the axles are clean. Slide them into the axle tubes and rotate them as needed to get the splines lined up and engaged with the carrier-- push them in as far as they will go.
  2. Slide the "C" clips back in the grooves at the end of the axles. Push out on the axles until the "C" clips are against the side gears.
  3. If your carrier center pin is badly scared get a new one! Remember you need to put it back in and this time you need to line the hole in the pin up with the hole in the carrier to insert the holding bolt through. This is "blind shot" so mark a line parallel to the hole in the pin before you put it back in. If your pin is in good shape or just has minor scars you can re-use it. Remove any burrs with light sandpaper and clean the pin before putting it back in.
  4. Install the bolt that secures the center pin. The torque spec for this bolt is 20 Lbs-ft. (27 N-m)
  5. Clean the rear end housing sealing surface and the rear end cover.
  6. Put a light smear coat of RTV on a new rear end cover gasket and install cover and gasket. The torque spec for the cover bolts is 22 lbs-ft. (30 N-m)
  7. Remove the fill plug located on the top passenger side of the rear end housing. The plug accepts a 3/8" square drive. A regular 3/8" ratchet works great--may need to use a short extension.
  8. The capacity of the rear end housing is 4.25 PINTS or 2 quarts 4 oz. Use your favorite rear end/gear lube.

    If you have a clutch style posi (Factory) rear end you need to add the GM limited slip additive or equivalent. GM Part number 1052358. Open or cone style posi carriers do not require the use of the additive.

    NOTE:

    1. One bottle of posi lube additive = 4 oz (guess that is where the .25 pints comes from?) If the car is supported at the frame the rear axle will hang down enough so you can fit the tip of a gear lube bottle in the fill hole and tip it up and squeeze the lube in. A hand pump can also be used. Remember to put the fill plug back in. Torque spec for the plug is 30 Lbs-ft (41 N-m)
  9. Reinstall brake drums and wheels.
  10. Lower rear end and torque the lug nuts. Check rear end cover for leaks.

 


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