I bought mine for $40 used. I found a Bosch (# 9580 810 021) unit off a Ford truck with EFI. It's used but seems to be working well. Puts out over 60 psi at the injector. a Bosch rep told me that most of there pumps have stainless insides (which resist alky corrosion. This is the main "iffy" part to the recipe. You gotta find a good EFI pump. I would not suggest the little skinnies that come in our cars. I have not heard any thing _good_ about them and alky/water. You may want to periodically check the out put of the pump. It is possible that it can corrode and need replacement after time. ~$40

Relay :

Just a simple 4 prong 30 amp relay like we use to "hot wire" the fuel pump.~$3

Some kind of MAP switch.

I used a switch that the digital dashed cars use to turn on the red and orange dash lights under boost. This switch is very adjustable via two screws on the back. When a certain boost is reached this switch completes a ground. I adjusted mine to 10 psi so that I was sure the alky would be there before detonation. I used compressed air and my boost gauge to tune it in to 10 psi. It has been w/ in one psi of ten every time. ~$10 used

Nozzle (injector) and jets.

I use NOS here, but it is entirely up to you. This is an area where your own line of reasoning comes to play. I used a NOS 90 degree nitrous nozzle. I did this so that I could aim the injector INTO the air stream for better atomization. It's far enough from the TB that I don't think turbulence is a problem. Atomization is key, that's the reason for the high psi pump. NOS has straight on nozzles too if you disagree with my reasoning. You'll also need a nut to mount the nozzle. I think a metric fine thread nut at the hardware store is what I used.. sorry, not sure what size but that's a starting point. The nozzle won't thread all the way in but it only needs to be flush with the nut seat. Jets: By a few of them, for you will be tuning. Try anything between .025 and .035 flare type jets. I have mine dialed in pretty well with a .030 jet. It will be different for everyone I'm sure. If you are curious as to whether you're to rich with alky, just look for clouds of steam behind you-:) ~$20

14 gauge wire.

several feet~$5

Plumbing to fit the NOS nozzle.

It will be different for everyone as to location of pump and nozzle.less than $15.

A Washer fluid tank that will fit in your engine compartment.

Mine is out of an old Chevy truck and rests where the charcoal canister used to be. It is good to mount the pump lower than the tank so that it will keep its prime. A washer fluid tank is nice due to the strainer in the pick up tube.less than $5.

Next get your wiring figured out. I mounted my pump under the air filter.....

NOTE: Do NOT let your pump touch any grounded metal.

The plastic wheel well is a great place for mounting. If you must mount it on metal you will have to reverse the wiring I describe later).... It was real close the alt. that way. I mounted the pressure switch on the pass side fender, behind the puke tank, under the little guard. There should already be holes for it to mount. Find a place to splice in the boost system for your switch. I placed the relay right next to it for ease of wiring and protection. The relay will be completing the ground for the pump.

Wiring:

1. Wire from NEG. post of PUMP to terminal 30
2. Wire from a GOOD GROUND to terminal 87
3. Wire from MAP switch to 86
4. Wire from battery or other (+) to terminal 85
5. Wire from alternator BAT post to POS pump terminal.

Wire routing is a thing of personal preference. I mounted my one wire that goes to the pump from the relay under the radiator support. If you have to take things apart for installation, be sure to reassemble frequently to check for clearance...This is very important-:)

Now (24 hrs later) the JB weld should be plenty hard to take stress from the nozzle and complimentary plumbing. Place the nozzle in the hole and thread it in until it is snug. Then back it off till it points in the desired direction, via the mark you put on it earlier. Like I said, mine points into the air stream. You should probably use Teflon tape to help seal it, since it won't be real tight. It doesn't have to be that tight though. Now you have the nozzle mounted, the up pipe on, the pump installed and wired...right <GRIN>.

Next is plumbing the pump to the nozzle. First you need to place one of your jets in your nozzle. It only fits one way....You can't screw it up.... The fittings then hold the jet into the nozzle. Your on your own from here. I have a front mount which leaves me a lot of room for plumbing. Keep tube routing in mind while your mounting your pump and nozzle. You'll need to either order the parts you need from NOS (or another nitrous supplier) or do what I did, and find a local hydraulic specialist. The can generally make any kind of hose and fitting you need. It's probably cheaper to go to NOS though. A worm drive clamp works great for holding the hose on to the pump. Keep in mind you'll be using high pressure. No vacuum lines-:)

That is about everything. If you have any specific questions let me know. I have had quite some fun with this setup. I run 9.5:1 and have experienced a 6 psi increase in boost with no knock. I have found that the thrasher chip did not work as well as a good conventional after market chip. I use a 50/50 rubbing alky and water mix. Its cheap and I think that is the best mixture. That's my experience anyway.

I hope that a good start anyway. It's really pretty simple. Good luck. Like I said let me know of any questions or clarification you may need..