Drums

[BoostedEvIL]

I'm going to attack my stock rear brakes in the near future and i've never touched drums before. I want to change out shoes and springs, but whatever rusty stuff I find in there I want to replace. Anybody have a good link with directions and a good brand for shoes?

P.S. I have no idea what to expect when I get the drum off. Car has 110k miles and P.O never had shoes replaced.

[Keller]

If the car has 110K, chances are good that the car has had at least one set of shoes done. Otherwise, you've been riding on the backing plates for awhile.

There isn't much hardware in there other than springs. Just the E-brake lever and the stuff that keeps the shoes in place. Most of the hardware comes in a kit, and you can reuse the springs. If you want to replace them, just buy the kit at any auto parts store.

I don't believe this site has any article on doing the rear brakes. The rears are so ubiquitious between the A-bodies of the 60s and 70s, B-bodies of the 80s and 90's, and the G-bodies of the 80s that many of us just sort of grew up knowing (hating?) that brake setup.

My suggestion:
- Pull *one* drum and study the layout thoroughly. Even take pictures after a Brakleen douche. Only do one side at a time!
- Get a few basic tools to make your job easier. Like a brake spoon to pull the springs on/off and a tool to push the holders down over the springs that hold the shoes on. If you don't have them, the job will take 3x as long and you'll be hating life.
- Decide if you need soft shoes for footbrake leaves at the track and larger 1984 S10 manual brake rear wheel cylinders ahead of time. Then you can install those while its all apart. For the shoes, look for non-metallic pads. It might be tough. The wheel cylinders mentioned are a tiny bit larger. I suggest using the OEM clips to hold them in, and getting name brand cylinders, no junk remans.

[BoostedEvIL]

Thanks Keller,
The car is more of a Sunday cruiser than a track car. Will I hurt drivability buy using the soft compound and larger cylinders? I'll gab the spoon when I get the rebuild kit.

[BoostedEvIL]

How bad does that look?

[Keller]

The regular metallic shoes are better for repeated stops, as they will handle the heat better. The 'soft' shoes work better cold...and that is about all.

The standard rear wheel cylinders are fine for normal use, IMHO. The use of the larger ones will add braking to the rear, which may not be to your liking. Up to you.

The front disc / rear drum setup does about 75% of the work with the front brakes. So adding a lot of emphasis to the back can change the brake feel quite a bit.

[Keller]

Looks worn, but not destroyed. The drums would have to be measured to see of they still have life and just may have to be turned or would have to be replaced.

[Ts86ttype]

Looks like normal wear. I don't see any axle seal leakage from your pics or any wheel cylinder seep...Follow Scotts' suggestions on the parts and tools you should be OK. Going with the bigger wheel cylinders is a good idea. When you have the large upper brake springs, out drop them on the floor and listen for a thud sound. If they thud they are OK, if they twang, they are stretched and need replacing. Just get a brake spring hold down kit at you parts store and you will be good to go... Good luck Tom G.

[BoostedEvIL]

Thanks guys,
I could make the spings stretch a little by hand. They were no where near as tight as I thought they would be. I will just get the new springs. As far as the cylinder goes, should I just change it out to be safe, or do they last pretty long? I'm not concerned with holding boost, more so with stopping distance. I'm probably going to get the these shoes unless you guys know of something better and cheaper.
:
http://www.partsamerica.com:80/Produ...pe=220&PTSet=A

Also, I don't think my drums are aluminum. They're rusty. How do I know if they're aluminum?

[Ts86ttype]

With over 100,000 miles on the car and probably original wheel cylinders I would change them out... Nothing worst than putting on new lining and having an old wheel cylinder start leaking... Those look to be cast drums. Aluminum do not rust on the out side... The shoes should be fine. You said you were more of a sunday driver than racer. Tom G.

[Keller]

Never seen an external adjustment hole in an OEM drum like that. You'd know if it were an aluminum drum. They don't rust, first of all. Secondly, they are much lighter. They have large, circular balance weights on the face, very often. And they are only on open rear end cars to my knowledge. I don't think you can find them in the aftermarket; only wrecking yards.